Yesterday marked the start of my hike along the Snowdonia Slate Trail, a day of surprises, scenic wonders, and a mix of challenges and small wins.
Setting off on the train to Newport, I found myself chatting with the station staff, setting a cheerful tone for the day ahead. I had to find a fix (a headband) for my backpack’s loose buckle. I switch trains at Newport for the Transport for Wales train, (it had USB charging points!) and announcements in Welsh, adding an immersive touch to the journey.
Interestingly the toilet felt like a TARDIS and kept talking 😆 “door closed”…
Chatting with other passengers was lovely and the lady selling food and drinks explained the voice for announcements is called “Digital Doris” amongstbthe staff.
Arriving in Bangor, I stepped onto the trail, greeted by a picturesque bike path in the woods and by penrhyn castle. Yet, amidst the beauty, I couldn’t help but notice the reality of homelessness under the bridge (someone clearly lives there)—a stark reminder of the world’s complexities.
I kept walking, and the scenery got better – fields full of sheep and adorable baby lambs, and I stumbled upon a lovely spot with bluebells nestled between a couple of trees.
Then, along the fence next to the A55, it got a bit muddy in places, but the wooden path kept it wild enough. I couldn’t help but notice the cars zooming by through the bushes and trees – even played “yellow car”, just for fun.
After that, I struggled over and over again through kissing gates as my pack was too big for them. Taking my bag off, lifting it over the gate, going through, putting my bag back on, walking the length of the field, and starting again…). It slowed me down a lot and was tiring.
Despite the hurdles (pun intended), the journey was punctuated by moments of wonder, from the smell of wild garlic to the breathtaking views atop Charub quarry. Pushing onward towards Bethesda, I struggled with fatigue and the weight of my pack. I was on my own all day. No other hikers on the trail. Just a few dog walkers in towns.
Deciding against indulging in a warm meal and pint in Bethesda, I carried on past Bethesda. The quaint station caught my eye with its charming architecture, providing a brief respite before pushing onwards.
Leaving the town behind, I hoped for smoother terrain to pitch my tent. A massive hill loomed before me, challenging my resolve, but the breathtaking views and wildlife sightings offered ample reward.
Saw another yellow car!
Fortunately, the weather held, sparing me from the rain as I navigated through marshy, boggy ground and crossed streams with caution.
I pressed on, guided by a mix of determination and optimism. As dusk approached, I faced the daunting task of finding a suitable spot to pitch my tent. My first option was under power lines, so I moved on.
With limited options and the threat of rain looming, I made a quick decision, settling for a rocky patch near a house.With the worst of the pitching behind me, I treated myself to a comforting meal of pasta and a hot chocolate, a well-deserved reward after a challenging day on the trail.
Richard later shared, it was Judith’s birthday yesterday – I think she’d have like my little adventure.
Stay tuned for the next chapter of my journey in Snowdonia.
As I sit here, double-checking my backpack in eager anticipation, I’m struck by a bunch of emotions – excitement, nervousness, and a touch of apprehension, forming just the right blend of anticipation for what lies ahead.
Tomorrow morning marks the beginning of my journey into the landscape of Snowdonia, as I embark on the Snowdonia Slate Trail, or as it’s known in Welsh, Llwybr Llechi Eryri.
The Slate Trail, an 83-mile path through the remarkable slate landscape of Snowdonia, promises to immerse me in the rich history of Wales’ latest World Heritage Site. As I tread the path of this once-thriving slate industry, I’ll bear witness to the haunting beauty of abandoned quarries, juxtaposed with the resilience of working ones. Along the way, I’ll have the chance to explore the National Slate Museum of Wales, a testament to the region’s industrial past, but also see lakes, rivers and beautiful Welsh villages.
My plan? To complete as much of the 83-mile trail as my five and a half days allow, embracing the challenge of (careful) wild camping for the very first time, too. Unlike my previous expeditions, meticulously planned with booked campsites or BnB and predetermined daily routes, this adventure is an exercise in spontaneity, . It’s just me, my trusty backpack, and the trail, beckoning me to let go of certainty and embrace the unknown.
The decision to embark on this journey comes with its own set of challenges, both physical and mental. Since returning from a charity trek in Iceland last month, where I had mild hypothermia, I’ve been grappling with fatigue and lingering effects. Yet, it’s precisely these challenges that fuel my determination to push my limits and rediscover my resilience in Snowdonia.
As I prepare to leave, I’m reminded of the advice and support I’ve received from fellow campers, mountain leaders, and hiking enthusiasts. Despite the weight of my backpack – a hefty 17.5kg with water – I’m grateful for the invaluable guidance that’s brought me to this moment. And though my pack may be heavy, my spirits soar with anticipation for the adventures that await.
So, as I leave behind the familiar comforts of home and set my sights on the landscapes of Snowdonia, I invite you to join me on this journey of discovery, and self-discovery. I’ll attempt to share pictures and post daily but if I fail, due to batteries or network, I’ll post when I am back to civilisation 😊.
As we approach bank weekend, I wish you all plenty of happy rambling!
In the lead-up to my upcoming Snowdonia Slate Trail adventure, I embarked on two amazing hikes that not only served as preparation but also filled my soul with joy and anticipation for the trails ahead.
Firstly, I ventured to Coaley Peak and Woodchester Valley loop, accompanied by the indomitable Andrea. Amidst the verdant woods and rolling hills, we indulged in a morning of hiking, sprinkled with a dash of trail running to outrun a passing tractor in the vineyard – an adventure filled with laughter, sunshine, and the simple pleasures of nature. It was a reminder of why the great outdoors is my happy place, and I eagerly look forward to more moments like these.
Next, I tackled Fan Brycheiniog, standing tall at 802m in the heart of Wales. Joined by ten fellow trekkers (from our Iceland trek) and two canine companions, Bear & Daisy, the day was nothing short of extraordinary. Despite the initial steep incline and an unexpected detour along the way, our journey was marked by camaraderie, breathtaking vistas, and the shared joy of overcoming challenges.
As I reflected on our Iceland trek and the resilience it demanded, conquering Fan Brycheiniog felt like a tribute to our determination and spirit of adventure. Each step reminded me of the incredible community of trekkers and supporters rallying behind Prospect Hospice, spurring me onward to embrace new challenges and make a difference.
With memories of these two unforgettable hikes fueling my excitement, I’m ready to embark on the Snowdonia Slate Trail, embracing the unknown with open arms and a heart full of anticipation. Here’s to the adventures that lie ahead, the friendships forged on the trails, and the endless possibilities waiting to be discovered amidst the beauty of nature.
Just over a week has passed since my return from the Hadrian’s Wall Path walk, and I’ve been grappling with a weird sense of lethargy, perhaps a bit of post-hike blues. The thrill of the through-hike adventure had probably spiked my dopamine levels, and its abrupt end (+ a busy work week) left a void. To fill this, last night, I turned to the OS map, packed my bag, and decided to embark on another (smaller) journey – this time to Wales.
OS map for Ystradfellte area
After leaving the main road, the drive towards Ystradfellte was nothing short of surreal. The last two miles were through a landscape filled with low ferns and roaming sheep; it felt eerie. It was a scene straight out of a painting. It was starting to rain.
With a much smaller and lighter backpack than last week, I decided to hit the trail immediately, hoping for the clouds to part soon. My pack held the essentials – 1.5L of water, first aid kit, some food, spare socks, sun cream ( over-optimistic anticipation of the sun), and my battery pack. Equipped only with my fleece and cap for weather protection (I forgot my rain jacket), I stepped onto the trail.
Walking alongside a wall feels quite familiar 🙂
The trail to the waterfalls was a stark reminder of the impermanence of nature. The once healthy trees that lined the path looked damaged and diseased, a stark contrast from my visit almost two years ago. Their plight was painfully evident when compared to the picture that is on the main header of my site.
But the journey must go on, and it led me to the first waterfall, Sgwd Clun-Gwyn, just after 10 o’clock. A serene stroll through a valley and a charming forest lead to this stunning waterfall, where the River Mellte gushes towards a drop and disappears below the cliff edge.
The drizzle persisted, making the stones leading to the waterfall viewing spot slippery. But, it was warm, and the drizzle was strangely refreshing.
Next came Sgwd Isaf Clun-Gwyn, a charming waterfall, secluded amongst woodland. The journey to it involved descending several flights of steep, muddy stairs, leading to a river nestled on a bed of black rock.
Following a muddy trail over the river from Sgwd Isaf Clun-Gwyn, I reached the highest waterfall, Sgwd y Pannwr. The sounds of rushing water could be heard before the fall even became visible. It flows down elegantly, step by step into the riverbed, a sight that leaves you in awe of its beauty. I love being by water and this felt just right.
I then went onto Sgwd yr Eira, the final and the largest waterfall on the trail. The descent to this waterfall was steep but with steps so not as strenuous. It rewarded me with a stunning view of the waterfall rushing down, a bit like a white veil. You can walk behind the curtain of cascading water! It felt very special.I didn’t get to experience this last time I visited so this was great!
After the short climb from the top of the fourth waterfall, I returned to the car park. In total the walk was just under 3 hours, covering 8.5km. The grey weather persisted, with fog and mist still hanging over the valley. But it was warm, and the drizzle was not an issue.
Deciding to make the most of my visit, I then went down to the cave, from the car park. The shift in temperature was noticeable as I descended the steps, the cold air bringing back childhood memories of visiting caves. Although it was getting busy and the car parks were full for the waterfalls walk, I had the cave to myself, engulfed in silence. It’s likely a place more suited for experienced visitors and maybe I wasn’t allowed to be there.
As I drove away from the valley, the weather decided to surprise me. Just a mile from the car park, I was greeted with beautiful skies and lovely sunny weather.
My next stop was Penderyn, where I picked up a present for a friend’s birthday. For anyone who enjoys a good whisky, I highly recommend stopping here. The lady in the shop was very helpful, and they offer visits every open hour, seven days a week.
On my way home, I stopped at Merthyr Tudful to charge my car and grab lunch.
This trip was a much-needed respite, but the next few weeks are going to be busy. My next hike might not be until late July, but I’ll post again soon about my plans for my next through-hike. Until then, keep exploring the outdoors!
This two-days backpacking trip was a challenging and memorable journey through the Beacons Way, with Sophie, packed with stunning landscapes, unforeseen obstacles, and acts of serendipitous kindness.
Day 1: An Unexpected Journey – Abergavenny to Llanthony Priory
Morning: Setting Off
Our little adventure started as we stepped off the train in Abergavenny mid-morning and embarked on the trail towards Ysgyryd Fawr. The way to the starting point of the walk took double my original time estimate – I’m not as fit as I used to be. On the climb to Ysgyryd Fawr, my legs started to ache, more so than usual, with cramps in my calves, which was surprising. Probably due to the weight of the backpack which I’m not used to. This tested my endurance but it also offered us a chance to meet many friendly faces along the way.
Afternoon: Detours and Discoveries
Navigating the descent from Ysgyryd Fawr, we took a detour amidst fields of sheep as the signage wasn’t great. My GPSMAP 67i came handy to get us back on track. We stopped for lunch by a stream, under a tree, where and inadvertently left a water bottle behind (not my best move on what appears to be the hottest day of the year so far). After that much-needed lunch break, we turned our steps towards the Skirrid Inn, where we got some refreshing drinks. The Skirrid Inn is the oldest Inn in Wales and inside, you can see signs for the well and a noose hanging from the stairs. Apparently hundreds of people died there in the civil war. We left the pub, refreshed for the impending climb to Hatterall Hill where we joined Offa’s Dyke.
Evening: Peaks and Valleys
The ascent was gruelling, yet the sight of numerous paragliders (there must have been hundreds of them!) and the spectacular panorama from the ridge atop Hatterall Hill, with England on our right and Wale on our left) and meeting some wild horses too, made every step worthwhile. As the day wore on, our progress slowed and we realised we won’t hit our time target of around 18:00 for the campsite. We missed a turn, straying from Offa’s Path instead of turning onto the Beacons Way (I blame the signage) and extending our journey by a few miles before finally retracing our steps and finding our way back to the Beacons Way, via a less-travelled path with a massive elevation drop, crossing several small streams. The way down to Llanthony was tough on our legs but we were rewarded by beautiful sights of the Priory as we approached the village. As we made our way towards Llanthony, we turned a corner into a captivating woodland that seemed lifted straight out of a fairy tale. Then for the first time in hours, we encountered another soul—a dog walker out for an evening stroll, a comforting reminder that we were drawing closer to civilisation.
Night: Camping (under the Stars?)
By 20:30, we finally reached the priory and found our way to the busier-than-expected campsite. It was a bank holiday weekend, and the available spots were few or not visible, within the long, unkempt grass of the field. The absence of an on-site loo facility was an unexpected challenge (I knew there would be no showers but not no toilet!), and we had to rely on a block of toilets located a couple of minutes’ walk away in the car park. We managed to pitch our tents quite quickly and fill our water bottles from the available water tap.
By the time we reached the bar at 21:10, we were met with disappointment—food service had ended at 20:30. Resorting to what was available, Sophie purchased us a slice of bara brith at the slightly exorbitant cost of £4.50 for a cling-wrapped piece of bara brith, as well as two Welsh cakes.
Back at our tents, I used the opportunity to try out my new solo stove, unpacking the Wayfarer meal pouches I’d brought along. The first attempt resulted in a slightly charred meal (sorry, Sophie), but I managed to perfect my technique by the second round, with a bit of stirring. As the evening chill set in, the warm meal brought us much-needed comfort.
Next came the challenging task of cleaning the burnt pan, a situation made trickier by my oversight in packing a sponge and washing up liquid. With a touch of ingenuity(?) and a lot of laughter, we used found items including toothpaste found on the floor, leaves, and grass to scrub the pan…
Despite the day’s struggles—from navigation issues and physical exertion to the unexpected dinner dilemma—we ended the evening on a high note. We enjoyed instant hot chocolate made with boiling water and shared the slice of bara brith, a warming treat. The campsite was quiet by 23:00 – and although we could hear singing from the other campsite, further away in the village, I was too tired to care. As it was a clear night, and we were in one of eighteen International Dark Sky Reserves, I was hoping to stargaze, but my fatigue won. I snuggled in my sleeping bag, open my hand warmer pack to bring me a bit of comfort and I fell sleep under the unseen stars.
Day 2: Overcoming Challenges – Llanthony Priory to Abergavenny
Morning: A Change of Plans
It has also inspired us to do Offa’s Dyke! For myself, it was really great training for my walk on Hadrian’s Wall in just under 2 weeks. I’ve learned a lot, about managing food, and water, the impact of carrying more weight, cooking on my stove, camping and navigating. This has also deepened my appreciation for the kindness of strangers and the beauty of the Beacons Way.
I woke up to sore muscles but felt ready to go. We knew our planned three-mountain hike to Crickhowell would be pretty much impossible, after the suffering from the previous day. So we revised our plans over breakfast (tea and yummy flapjacks made by Sophie) choosing a flexible approach with various options and prioritising a slow, enjoyable trek over arduous mountain climbs.
Afternoon: Unexpected Kindness on the Trail
Our journey led us through beautiful woodlands, thought Llanthony Woods along the forest track. We made good progress. We met two gents on horsebacks who advised us not to take the low road by the farm as the ford was quite high (we could see the mud marks on the horses’ legs) so we enjoyed a dry hike. Eventually the track lead us at the Queen’s Head in Cwmyoy. The landlady allowed us to purchase refreshments despite the pub being closed and advised on the quickest route back to Abergavenny. However, wanting to avoid a long walk along the roadside in the hot weather, we decided to tread through the woods back towards the Skirrid Inn.
Evening: The Final Leg
Arriving at the Skirrid Inn, we discovered there was no public transportation on a Sunday. Also, Sophie phoned all the taxi firms in Abergavenny and none had availability. With our options dwindling, we enjoyed a lovely hearty lunch and began planning a long walk back to Abergavenny, with the fewest climbs possible. Just when we thought we were in for another long haul, a kind couple (Josh and Eva) offered us a ride; we’ve been so lucky to me such kindness on our way! I was sat next to Sandi, their dog on the way to Abergavenny: she was soooo cuddly!
Reflecting on the Journey
Our expedition ended with a happy feeling, despite physical exhaustion and unforeseen challenges. Waiting for our train home (delayed because our train got cancelled), we indulged in ice cream and reminisced about the journey.
I want to thank Sophie for her invaluable company, navigation (and tasty flapjacks!). This adventure would not have been the same without her.
This was a trial hike in a few different ways. My first hike in a while, the first one I decided to document and the first one I tried to take photos on the DSLR camera (Nikon) rather than my phone.
We set off a couple of hours later than planned and arrived at Ystradfellte at about 12:00. I’d hoped to park at the pub The New Inn so we could eat there on the way back but the pub has clear signs not to park there, and it was closed. We’d passed a car park but that had a sign indicating it was full so we drove further and ended parking in a farmer’s field (they charged us £5 for the day) near the official parking called Cwm Porth. ///testy.different.chestnuts
There a cool cave, worth a look at before you start the walk. It’s called Porth yr Ogof and it’s just below the car park in the woods: ///rope.neon.mealtime
We then set off on the walk. At this point, it’s past 12:00 and we haven’t had lunch. I didn’t mind too much because I’d been unwell in the morning so wasn’t too hungry. I’d had a slice of toast around 09:30 while walking the dog, at home, before we got in the car. I’d brought some cereal bars so I gave one each to Rod and James , and I ate my yummy Trek oat bar.
As you’ll see on the map above, we made a few detours but it was a good walk and we’ll worth it for the beautiful sights.
At one point on the path, I fell on my backside and landed badly, hurting my shoulder – the bicep pain was horrible. It lasted for days after the fall, actually. As I write this, it still hurts when I use my right arm. With the lack of food, I became extremely tired. Then I lost Rod and James (they had my bag and mobile phone in my bag) so I got a little upset with exhaustion and pain.
But we carried on. We stopped a few times and I got my second Trek bar out; we shared it, just before the last stretch back to the car park.
We had good weather all along, which was quite lucky.
I’ll go back and do this walk again, starting earlier, taking food with me and maybe do it in the other direction. I consider this one as a rehearsal 🙂
