Tag: Wales

Rambling on Together: An Extended Waterfall Adventure

Leave a comment

12 April 2025
Distance: 15.88 km
Elevation Gain: 420 m


Route: Dinas Rock → Pull Berw → Sgwd yr Eira → Sgwd y Pannwr → Sgwd Isaf Clun Gwyn → Sgwd Clun Gwyn → Sgwd Ddwli Uchaf → Sgwd y Bedol → Sgwd Gwladus

A week ago today, a group of us (Kerry, Gary, Johnny and I) embarked on an early morning adventure, setting off at 06:30 and arriving at Dinas Rock before 09:00, with a brief coffee and convenience stop in Merthyr Tydfil.

The plan was to walk an extended version of the Four Waterfalls Walk, and it delivered as we saw over 10 waterfalls.

We started the walk with a steep couple of climbs!



Our journey began with  Pull Berw, a serene introduction to the cascading wonders ahead.

The path to Sgwd yr Eira was both challenging and rewarding.

We witnessed some smoke and flames, along a ridge in the distance – wildfires. It’s sobering reminder of nature’s fragility.

Walking behind the curtain of water at Sgwd yr Eira was a highlight, offering a unique perspective of nature’s power.
Then we faced the 170 steps back up the path that tested our endurance.



The trail continued to Sgwd Isaf Clun Gwyn, where a steep scramble added an element of adventure.

Lunch at Sgwd Ddwli Uchaf provided a moment of respite, accompanied by the soothing sounds of flowing water…until a lot of families arrived and we felt it was time to move on.

We then left the Four waterfalls area and headed onto the Elidir trail.

A delightful detour to Clyngwyn Farm Bunkhouse and Café offered a sweet treat. I had an ice cream. The misspelt “Barra brith” on the menu brought a chuckle(I need to learn not to correct people on spelling in their own language!), but the warm hospitality and delicious offerings made it a memorable stop.

The next stretch, past some farms and along a stream up to Pont Melin Fach didn’t feature waterfalls but was really pleasant and picturesque along the steam.

There started the new streak of Waterfalls – we saw the sixth waterfall of the day: Sgwd Ddwli Uchaf. And then so many that we stopped counting…


A surprise awaited us at Sgwd y Bedol—a lone swimmer embracing nature in its purest form! We didn’t need these sights! I’ll spare you the photo of the man to keep his privacy… But to be fair I don’t think he had any concerns about keeping himself private at all!

The final stretch led us to Sgwd Gwladus, where we once again walked behind the waterfall, just after an unexpected slip reminded me of the trail’s unpredictability. I didn’t get hurt. Just my ego bruised!

The Bannau Brycheiniog never ceases to amaze. Each waterfall, each path, and each unexpected moment contributed to a day filled with laughter, awe, and a deep appreciation for the natural world.

I’d been there twice before but each time it feels different and looks different, depending on the seasons and the company.

Sharing this experience with Kerry, Gary, and Johnny made it all the more special.

Next walk will be more local.

Rambling on Together: Epic Dragon’s Back in Bannau Brycheiniog

Leave a comment

📍 Dragon’s Back, Bannau Brycheiniog, Cymru



Over a  week on and I’m still buzzing from this one—an absolutely epic day out on the Dragon’s Back! We went to Hay-on-Wye for the Riverside parkrun first which was really lovely.

This hike was everything: tough, wild, a bit cold at times, and utterly breathtaking.

We set out with high spirits and solid legs, and by the end we’d tamed the ridges and conquered the peaks. The climbs were no joke, especially up to Waun Fach (811 m), but every step was worth it for those views.

It felt like we were climbing for the first five kilometres. From the ruins of Castell Dinas (450 m) to the sweep of the Black Mountains from Pen y Grib (493 m), this route delivered in every way.

It was the third organised walk from the series but the second attended by friends.

As for the first one, I planned the route on paper maps, GPS Garmin device and OS Maps app. I sent a kit list, admin instructions including elevation and overall hole description, as well as a timed itinerary, and everyone was prepared. I also provided the customary flapjacks.

The company was brilliant (thanks Gary, Johnny and Gary!), the weather held, and the landscape felt like something straight out of a fantasy novel.

Being there, at the top of those hills brings me such joy I don’t know how to put it in words and pictures can’t show it either… it’s somehow awe for nature we are with, a sense of insignificance and impermanence that makes me feel free from daily worries. It just fills my happiness tank!

I haven’t stopped smiling since. This was a hike that reminded me why the mountains are my happy place.

Highlights:

  • Sweeping ridges  with huge views
  • A proper leg-burner with rewarding climbs (yes, it’s a positive!)
  • Sunshine, lovely friends, and moments of pure joy

Already planning to return. If you’re up for a challenge and love wild beauty, Dragon’s Back is calling!!

Diolch yn fawr! Hwyl!

2024 Hike Highlights: Quick Recap

Leave a comment


Before jumping into 2025 adventures (which have started), here’s a summary of some unforgettable hikes from last year, which I didn’t get a chance to post about but I’m going to do a bit of a photo dump to record them!

Photo dump incoming…

1 June 2024:

Lovely hike up Win Green in Wiltshire on my way to Sarah’s house before the Clarendon Walk.

There are extensive views, with Bournemouth, the Isle of Wight, Salisbury, Glastonbury Tor, the Mendips, the Quantocks and Milk Hill all visible in clear conditions. It is classed as a Marilyn, and is a landmark due to the clump of trees on the high point.



2 June 2024: Clarendon Walk
– 26 miles of walking with Sam and Sarah to support Naomi House Children’s Hospice. A physically challenging but heartwarming day for an amazing cause. 

It was really 27 miles & we walked an extra mile from and to the carpark – 29 miles



15 June 2024: Edale Skyline Challenge
– Peak District magic with Andrea.

One of the hardest and most rewarding hikes I’ve ever done. The views and terrain were breathtaking and the weather kept changing – I’m definitely coming back for more adventures here! 

We saw a rainbow right by us on the last mile.



30 June 2024: Sugar Loaf


A quick and scenic 2.5-hour hike with Fran. Stunning wildlife and surroundings made this a perfect day. A manageable climb that would also be fantastic for trail running. 

26-27 July 2024: Mynydd Du Fforest Grwyne Fawr Reservoir Walk

Amazing weekend, walk to the reservoir with Dan, wild camp under clear skies, great food, laughter, all the weather on day two, forest walk and stop in a pub garden on the way back. Very cool.

18 August 2024: Cleeve Hill with Sam

Cleeve Hill (330 m)
Lovely 5 mile stroll with my bestie Sam. Lovely day out and such great views.

5 October 2024: Pen-y-fan with running club friends

Afternoon the Y Promenâd parkrun, five of us had a challenging, windy , but (mostly) sunny climb up 🏔️Corn Du and 🏔️Pen Y Fan.
3h (ish) – 520m elevation…
Brilliant little trip!



1 November 2024: Savernake Forest


A vibrant autumn hike with Andrea, Joanna, and Claudia. The colours, crisp air, and great company made it awesome. 



30 November 2024: Ashbury to Ashdown House (via the Ridgeway)


A wonderful day with Danny, combining great chats and Ridgeway’s rolling landscapes. 



30 December 2024: Wilton Windmill Loop


My daughters joined me for a 10km adventure! It was such a fun loop – a perfect way to end the year. 

Now I can focus on 2025 hikes while these memories stay documented!

What were your favourite hiking moments of 2024?

Let me know! 🥾✨

Pembrokeshire overnight adventure

Leave a comment

I’ve not posted in a while.

I took an impromptu road trip to Pembrokeshire in May, and that’s the quick summary.

Dinas head

📍 Newport Sands
📍Pwllgwaelod Beach
📍Dinas Head (including Pen Y Fan – highest point on the island
📍 Porthcawl

Improvised little adventure: solo road trip, car camping, hike and sandy toes, in just over 24h.

I left Swindon at 17:00 Saturday and back before 21:00 Sunday night.
First time car camping was great – see pic of the car with fairy light and all!

I camped by the beach, and had breakfast with the sound of the dawn chorus and waves at sunrise, took a nap and headed to Dinas head.

Lovely little stroll on Dinas Head. Pity about the mist/cloud coverage on the coast.
I’ll have to come back in good weather and look out for dolphins.
Still, well worth the road trip and car camping. Another very fun little solo adventure.

I stopped in Porthcawl on the way home. I went for a dip in the sea and the weather was gorgeous.

Total idiot: I scraped my right knee in the sea on a rock!

Photo dump

Written in May 2024… Uploaded in March 2025.

I’ll post the rest of 2024 adventures soon and my plans for 2025.

Over and out

A spontaneous hike : last day in Eryri

Leave a comment

Today, instead of resting as initially planned due to a poor weather forecast (,the first plan was hiking Yr Wyddfa at sunrise but then forecast for poor to moderate conditions meant I went for a “rest day”), I couldn’t resist the appeal of the local hills.
I decided to go on a “leisurely stroll” up Moel Eilio (726m), Foel Gron (629m), Foel Goch(605m), and Moel Cynghorion (674m). Bagging two Welsh Marylins (Moel Eilio and Moel Cynghorion) felt like a satisfying achievement.

It was a simple, happy day, enjoying the beauty of nature in its purest form. Very few people about.
I saw 4 or 5 people in the first 4h, and after 1h of not having seen anyone, I went for a nature wee behind a rock…what are the chances?!? Two German trail runners showed up! Luckily they didn’t see me as I was quick. Classic hiking bad timing though…

I had lunch at the top of Moel Cynghorion. It was so pleasant. Looking over the valley and yr Wyddfa.

Instead of pushing on towards Garnedd Ugain and Yr Wyddfa (which was very tempting while there as it looked fairy close and feasible), I opted to head back via Telegraph Valley.


Lots of ascents today again but I really enjoyed it.
The “stroll” turned into a full-on hill hike.

Today wasn’t planned, but it turned out to be a day filled with unexpected delights, once more, in the stunning landscape of Eryri. After a week of adventurous stomping around, covering 87 miles or about 140 kilometers with plenty of uphill climbs, embracing the wilderness, camping under the stars for four nights (3 of them wild camping), encountering wildlife, and both swearing and laughing in the face of challenges.
Time to go home tomorrow.

Llwybr Llechi Eryri – Day 6, Rhiwbach quarry to Betws-y-Coed

2 Comments

I woke up with the dawn chorus, feeling quite cold, and when looking outside, fog was covering all those beautiful views from last night. I warmed up with my breakfast (porridge and hot chocolate) and slowly started getting ready and packed for the day ahead. It was my last night out in the wild, and I had to pack this tent still damp from the mist. One thing that disgusted me was finding a slug on top of my sleeping bag! Yuck. I guess it got in the tent while I made and ate breakfast. It’s been a great experience but I don’t think I’m made for the fully outdoors life! I’m glad I did this for the last few days and got an experience unlike any others. But I’ll be glad not to have to carry my house with me everywhere after that 🐌.




When I woke up, I’d say the visibility was about 100m. By the time I set off, it had improved. Looking at my map, I estimated about 300m visibility. It improved as I walked along. I tried to keep a good pace to keep myself warm. I had all the layers and gloves, but it was a little windy and still cold.

I wore compression socks last night, and it may be the reason, but my right calf didn’t hurt as in previous days; I was especially conscious of it in the steep descent to Cwm Penmachno. It was pain-free.



The Eagles in Penmachno was closed and seemed to only open for evening meals, so I purchased some food and a big bottle of water at the Londis. I topped up my now empty Camelback and found a bin by the bus stop to throw the bottle away.

I found it hard to find directions out of Penmachno. Maybe tiredness or maybe I missed the signage? Then I climbed above Penmachno to the forest edge and carried on along the forest track for quite a while. I felt stronger, and my pace improved.

I saw some waterfalls, and then, as I planned to stop in the car park by the crossroads before the Conwy Falls for lunch, I realised there was a lovely café.
It felt like luxury. The café owners/workers were so lovely. The all-day veggie breakfast was delicious, and there was a charging point where I topped up my power pack. I had two americanos, and the sun came out while I waited. The toilets were very clean and boasted a shower cubicle, which is worth knowing for wild campers, I guess? Not that I recommend wild camping here as it’s a busy car park!



At this point, I made the decision to end my Llwybr Llechi Eryri walk at Betws-y-Coed today. It’s been wonderful, but being tired, I don’t think I should push it further. I decided I would return by public transport to my booked accommodation from there. With that in mind, I decided to take my time and enjoy the Conwy Falls. It was £2, so be prepared to pay if you ever go there. I was just surprised, but I do understand contributions help keep the place safe and sustainable. The sun had come out to play, which made it a very lovely stroll. The falls were so impressive and powerful!


I was a little tired after the stroll around the woods. I took a break by the café and then set off for my last stretch from Conwy Falls to Betws-y-Coed. What a wonderful calming walk. It was sunny, but the tree-lined paths made it so pleasant. I arrived in Betws-y-Coed just before 16:30 and sat on a bench in the park, contemplating what I achieved in the last few days, before heading to the train/bus station.


I perhaps will come back one day and walk from Betws-y-Coed to Bethesda.

My advice

– Plan for all weathers! Overall I was lucky with the weather but it gets cold and windy in places.
– Prepare to tackle hills. They are everywhere. But no rush, you can enjoy it and look around by slowing down. Also, the more you walk hills, the easier it gets.
– Travel light: I had my struggles but anyone who’s more reasonable than me would not do it camping , by staying in accommodation and getting support/lifts + not carrying a heavy pack. Having a lighter bag would massively have improved my pace.
– You need to like sheep a lot 🐑  😆 they will be everywhere!
– Don’t be scared to walk through mud and waterlogged ground. Get proper waterproof boots (mine are expensive but didn’t let me down a single time).
– Check your route before you go. Bring a map / make sure you have basic navigation skills in case you are in low visibility or in wilder areas with fewer signposts.
– Have sufficient water and food.
– Finally, enjoy! You don’t have to do the whole route. Do take detours to see sights you like. My favourite part hands up was Beddgelert to Nantmor. It’s short but challenging.
I also loved the Bwlchgwernog area, just before Croesor.

For those of you who live in the area, go enjoy the beauty you have in your doorstep 💚


I hope you’ve enjoyed reading these walk reports. I hope it inspires some of you to spend time outdoors, be it for your own adventures, on this trail or elsewhere, or a day out in your local area. Feel free to ask me questions if I can help. I might not know the answer but I will try to help/ find out.

Being with nature is wonderful for the soul. Try it more often.

So what’s next?

I will be walking a marathon between Winchester and Salisbury on 2nd June in aid of Julia’s House Children’s hospice. If you can and would like to contribute, here is the fundraising page.

After that, I am tackling the Edale Skyline challenge with my friend Andrea mid-June (20 miles in 8h – not sure I can do that!). I’ll try to blog about this. Then my walking adventures will be on a break until late October while I train for my first-ever half marathon. (Scary)

Diolch Eryri am yr antur! Wela’i di wedyn!

And with this, I wish you all happy rambling.

You can’t add days to your life, but you can add life to your days.

Llwybr Llechi Eryri – Day 5, Llan Ffestiniog to Rhiwbach quarry

2 Comments

I wasn’t feeling at my best this morning. I woke up with a headache (and a bit of a nosebleed but it didn’t last – I think it’s just sinusitis-kike symptoms) and remember having had very vivid stressful dreams.

My legs felt rested. My battery packs were not  full because the charger was super slow and only had one USB slot on it.

I had porridge and  hot chocolate. I also took antihistamines and paracetamol.

As I was packing my bag, I realised I broke my sunglasses which isn’t ideal. I guess that’s  something else not to carry but what a shame.

I  went to the corner shop (opened at 8am) to buy a couple of things before I headed off and left Llan Ffestiniog around 08:30.



The plan today was to walk to Penmachno.
It is a hilly challenging 13+ miles with a 5km stretch which the guide describes as the “wildest of the entire Trail” (also part of Migneint site of special scientific interest).

The first part of the walk was absolutely beautiful : Ceunant Cynfal nature reserve.
I walked past many waterfalls, lovely oak trees covered in moss, bluebells, etc. the main attraction is the Rhaeadr Cynfal waterfall.

Walking from Llan Ffestiniog to the viaduct, at a leisurely pace, stopping for photos of waterfalls, oak trees, moss and bluebells, took 1h.

I had been feeling quite tired, headachey and hungry. I stopped in the woods to eat salted cashews, drink water and take two ibuprofen (I had paracetamol this morning).
I knew there was a bit of hill climbing ahead today so  I took it at an easy pace.



I walked to the Fferm cwm (ancient building).
Then the hill that followed was vety hard work but rewarded by the beautiful waterfall once you reach the first top.
The path keeps climbing thereafter until you reach the road.
The terrain was also difficult with wet ground and clumps of grass. Watch your ankles!
My right calf was sore so it’s been hard work.

From there it’s well signed. I stopped after the crossing to send messages in case there is no signal later. I had food as it was lunch time.

Tiredness started to be felt at that point. My eyes wanting to shut and rest so I put on my fleece, laid on my backpack and slept for five minutes. I needed that rest.
I went on to Llyn y Morynion. It was beautiful. Sadly it was spoilt by the engine noise of a truck/car. Someone from Welsh Waters was sat there in the car space, with their engine on.

Electric lamb?


I carried past the dam and went past two small slate derelict houses. I followed what seemed the track only to realise I was slightly off track. I got my marks looking around and found the gate. Interestingly when I got there, it was the other side of the fence!

When I got stuck out the gate.
Gate conquered


So I took off my bag and climed over.
Another win for the confidence:)

I walk past the bryn y Castell (ancient fort) and up the hill , following the fence. I stopped for an afternoon snack and watch battery top-up by a little lake (on the other side of the fence). It was good to stop to check the route ahead.

Stile in disrepair
Amazed at the natural bubbles that kept forming


Straight after my break followed a lot of wet ground and I escaped sinking a couple of times; I made my way up then down hill to reach the road. I sat on the slate bridge for a minute – chatting on the phone with my daughters. Then I took on THE hill towards the slate plant. Steep road. It took me 30 minutes to reach the plant, helped by playing a bit of music too. I thought it was a good effort. Never skip leg day at the gym or interval hill training at the running club!


I walked around the corner from the slate plant, toward the disused communication towers and arrived on top of Rhiwbach quarry. What a view!

Not impressed by climbing that road for 30 min straight



My legs have given up so I stopped here for the night. Just a few meters from the path, as I don’t want to be around any mineshafts.
I cooked dinner, drank peppermint tea and I’m ready to sleep.
I walked for 9 hours and saw nobody else walking.  Not even dog walkers.


Tomorrow will take me to Penmachno and hopefully Betws-y-coed. This is likely my last day of walking so I probably won’t complete the whole trail back to Bethesda. But I’m glad I walked this far already and I’m in awe of how amazing Eryri is.

Llwybr Llechi Eryri – Day 4, Croesor to Llan Ffestiniog

Leave a comment

I was woken up by two cars around 2:50 am. They asked if I was okay and the conversation went:
“Have you guys been in the mine?”
I went “no, I’m on the Slate Trail and it was late so I camped… Are you the landowner?” (Thinking I needed to move on)
– si you’re just camping? No, we’re Mountain Rescue! Are you okay?
– yes, just asleep! 😆
The guy tapped my hand as I saw his mountain rescue jacket.  They went on in their cars.
I feel stupid because I was half asleep and it felt like a ridiculous situation. I hope whoever they were there for is safe.
It was super windy out there.


They passed by again at 4:30 am, and wished me good morning!
I got up at 5:20 am, made hot chocolate and porridge, and enjoyed the dawn chorus.

Feeling tired but upbeat enough, I ate breakfast and freshened up (with wipes!). I hoped to break camp before 7 am. Checking my Camelback water levels, I found I had more than I thought for the day. I left a little after 7 am and started the walk with a big slope, feeling cold until I reached a sunny spot. The sounds of nature (no cars etc) were amazing.

Taking a break at 470m altitude, I had a protein bar for a snack.
I climbed about 215m in the first hour or so. I only did a mile in an hour. Little did I know at that point that it would be my pace the whole day.
It was so beautiful up there.
It was hard to see the path amidst the ruined houses, and then I spotted two cars with tent boxes, and wondered how they got there considering the terrain but also perhaps if that was related to the mountain rescue in the night. The climb up Croesor quarry was challenging but rewarding.


I reached the highest point in the trail. It was amazing.
I had climbed 280m in 1h30 since I started this morning. That was only 1.3 miles but hard with the climb!
According to my watch, I got to 541m altitude. The weather was perfect. I took photos and could see the tiredness in my eyes.
I took my jacket and fleece off and applied sunscreen.



I walked the wrong way for a bit at the Croesor quarry but eventually went past the waterfall and slowly (it was so hard to go down in the slate slope) got down to the bottom, then to the Lakeside café in Tanygrisiau.
I had a veggie full English and coffee and got a litre of water for my pack. I forgot to get my Llwybr Lechi Eryri passport stamped, for one I was in one of the places who can do it.
After a meal and replenishing my water supply, I continued towards Blaenau Ffestiniog.



Encountering blocked paths and abandoned cars, the journey became less pleasant. However, the view improved as I approached Blaenau Ffestiniog. Just before Blaenau Ffestiniog, encountering six boys walking with cans of drinks and with a shovel echoed a vibe from the movie “Stand by Me.”



Arriving in Blaenau Ffestiniog, I stocked up on water and purchased a USB charging plug. It was such a long slog between Blanau Ffestiniog and Llan Ffestiniog. The path is definitely the scenic route. It was hot and I kept stopping. I was doing an average of a mile per hour only. But it was pretty.
I didn’t see a soul walking between Blanau and Llan Ffestiniog at all. A lot of sheep. A ewe and two lambs even walked with me for a bit.
This is where I really started to have tired legs. I was checking my phone for options, ready to call it a day when I get to Llan Ffestiniog.



I’ve passed Pengwern Old Hall farm. The area is beautiful but I was then suffering so much (legs were sore and I looked like I was limping even though I wasn’t ) that I didn’t feel I was enjoying this to the fullest.
I’m a grown-up strong independent woman but at that specific point, and until I was in the pub in Llan Ffestiniog, I wanted to throw a tantrum, and just sit on the floor and stay where I was. But I knew I needed to carry on to Llan Ffestiniog at least if I hoped to find accommodation.

As I approached Llan Ffestiniog through the woods, rehearsing in my head how to ask for help for campsite/ B&B and charging for my phone in Cymraeg, I slowed down (even more if that was possible) and did get to appreciate how special and beautiful this place is. The gorgeous woods with moss and low-level shrubs, tall trees, and the noise of the waterfall below. I wondered how come I got this place to myself on a bank holiday – I’d expect locals to come and enjoy it here. It’s so lovely.

An irrefutable sign that I was approaching the town is the whistle of the steam train.
My legs were starting to feel the relief as I could picture stopping for the day.



Those last hills were tough in the woods and then in the field on the way up to Llan Ffestiniog were so tough!
Also, one more part of my left shoulder strap broke on my backpack.



Then this…



Okay, I did slide it over but it wasn’t stretching so I had to hold the gate up to do it.
I don’t mind some challenges but I’m exhausted. This shouldn’t feel like I’m in an episode of Survivor!

I went across the field, uphill, aiming for the walking path post I could see by a gate… Unfortunately, it wasn’t a gate, it was a wooden gate in front of wire. I couldn’t summon the energy to walk back down the field and back up. So I climbed over. It must have been a sight! I wasn’t confident at all! But I did it and also got my foot stuck in the wire and had to entangle myself.
I was all full of dirt by then.



And yet there was a bit more to climb to go to the pub.
I asked for a drink in Cymraeg and also asked if they had rooms for the night and got told no.
I looked on my phone and decided to attempt to call the Treks bunkhouse which was about 30 min walk away.
The owner explained he was fully booked with groups but to try the Pengwern which is where I just got told no. I checked and it was the same place.
I told him they had no room so he asked me to walk back there. He explained he helped run the place and they should take walk-ins. He came over, got them to get me a room and I paid £45 for the night. Such a relief. I couldn’t walk any further today.


I am at that point in the walk I was at on Hadrian’s Wall when I nearly gave up. Similar distance and number of days. I know I can do it but it’s about resting tonight and starting afresh tomorrow.

I’m sat on the window ledge with a cup of peppermint tea, writing this up, after I’ve had a shower. Such luxury. I found hot water to make a meal (pasta) with the last of my chorizo.  I’m charging my power packs, too. I look forward to being warned and feeling better tomorrow!


So it’s goodnight from me.

Llwybr Llechi Eryri – Day 3, Talymignedd Isaf campsite to Croesor

Leave a comment

As I started day 3, I expected a slow day, aiming for 12 to 15 miles. I woke around 2:30 am to a beautiful night sky, though my camera couldn’t capture it. After getting up  properly at 6 am, I delayed getting out of my sleeping bag due to the cold and fatigue.

After breakfast and chatting with other campers, Martin, a keen hiker and mountain leader, offered me coffee and introduced me to his wife Fran who walked across Iceland. We discussed hiking, with Martin diagnosing me as “insane” due to the weight if my bag! That’s about right.

I set off around 9 am, enjoying the sunny climb and later with majestic views of Yr Wyddfa and glimpses of the sea.



Descending to Rhyd Ddu, I stopped at a pub for a chocolate bar and apple juice before heading slowly to Beddgelert.

Despite enjoying the woods, I felt mentally fatigued. Concerns about finding accommodation and essentials like water and power troubled me. At Beddgelert, I couldn’t find anywhere to top up my power packs but charged up my devices on the charge I had left.  Refueling at a café (bara brith and coffee ) improved my mood and I started to feel brighter as I walked along the riverbank, feeling refreshed. Even my bag didn’t feel that heavy.



The day’s path was drier overall. I had occasional cloudy weather but mostly sunny.

This is when I had what is perhaps the best mile I walked in my life.

Negotiating boulders and paths over the side of the river was exhilarating. Despite the challenges, I felt happier and more confident.

It goes to show about impermanence of situations. I’m not saying you should always push through  but having a go at the next step before giving up is so important because you don’t know what’s around the corner.  In my case from being tired and wanted to call it a day to exhilarating happy moments on the trail.

Hiking is always here to remind me of these life lessons.

Passing through Nantmor and Bwlchgwernog, I struggled to find a suitable camping spot due to wet ground.



Also, after the fun buzzing part, I had a “moment” of awe when in a proper wild unspoiled area with majestic views.
I’m very lucky to have experienced this.

Eventually, I pitched my tent on a windy hillside above Croesor.

Limited phone connectivity made communication difficult, but I managed to send some messages before struggling to keep warm and falling asleep around 11 pm.

You won’t believe what happened in the night… Wait until the next blog, later on, you will have a good laugh at me!

Llwybr Llechi Eryri – Day 2, Deiniolen to Talymignedd Isaf campsite

Leave a comment
17.5 miles

There is not phone or mobile data here, so I’m using the campsite wifi. Instead of my usual blog, I will just paste my notes, taken along the day (and dump photos as usual).

I woke up at 5 am. It’s still raining continuously outside, but I know I can’t just leave the tent pitched, so I am going to fold it wet. My boots are still wet on top from yesterday from when I submerged my feet by accident.

Note that wild camping is not legal unless you have permission from the landowner. I was fully prepared to move if asked. I pitched at dusk and lifted camp early, leaving no trace.

I cleaned and charged my watch, had a bar of protein Oreo Grenade.

I deflated my mat, trying to be organized in the tiny tent space, packed all my stuff in the dry bags, put on fresh socks, rain trousers, and a backpack cover on the bag. I will try to find a café later and stop for a hot drink, food, and admin/blog posting from yesterday, etc., network permitting.

Padarn forest/park was beautiful. Some places looked like a fairytale land with so many bluebells, moss, and being on top of a waterfall. Lovely to see wildlife.

The uphill and downhill paths were really tricky and slippery. Not sure how I managed to stay upright but I did. The viewing point over the lake was gorgeous, even in poor weather.

The National Slate Museum was shut as it’s 08:15 – too early.

On the footbridge after the museum, beautiful views of Dolbadarn Castell and the mountains. Must be even more impressive on a clear day!

Stopped at the Heights restaurant for breakfast in Llanberis. It wasn’t marked as open in Google maps, but I saw people and asked, and they serve breakfast from 8 am.

Had a “small” English breakfast and a black coffee. Hunger does wonderful things; I don’t usually like baked beans, but I ate everything on the plate. Made use of the toilets and charged my power pack.

After Llanberis, I went up a massive hill. And again. But the views were incredible. Then the path felt quite long before turning to Waunfawr. Views of the sea, I think, and a castle in front too. Sadly overcast, but it must be amazing in clear weather.

The rain stopped late morning. Friends in the South are bragging of the gorgeous weather. Sadly it wasn’t so good here. The way down to Waunfawr is super pretty with mini waterfalls but also extremely muddy. Nice kestrel overhead. As I approached the village, I could hear cockerels and ducks and chickens, etc.

Today I did 17.5 miles, and it wasn’t flat! I’m thinking to limit my walk to 12-15 miles tomorrow because my legs and hips are suffering a little this evening.

Also spotted the steam train.

I had done over 8 miles by 12:00. Happy with that even though I guess some of that was in the café this morning.

I stopped at Tafarn Snowdonia Parc – had a toastie, salad, and chips and a half pint of Aur Eryri. Struggling to eat so much bread and chips, but I need to fuel the walk.

Topped up watch and phone charge, water, used the toilet.

Walked uphill and talked with three lovely Welsh people. Then up up in woods, it was so beautiful. Hard work as my pack is heavy uphill. My centre of gravity shifted with the weight if the pack.

Then on the moor, I felt like in Iceland with the wind and landscape. I turned a corner, saw the sea. Everything was fine again.

What mattered was I knew where I was and where I was going. It felt so slow again. Super tired by then.

Just slow things down and it all becomes beautiful

Also, white horses to cross through. A lot of soggy ground again through the old quarries.

The mountains are majestic. I saw some people; they said the path gets better after you turn a corner so I followed the signage but ended up about 30 minutes off course. At that point I thought it would cost me a night of wild camping rather than reaching the campsite in after Nantlle tonight.

The picture don’t do it justice but the colour of the water in the quarry was so blue. Amazing.

Bloody kissing gates not taking the size of my pack – covered in mud

Then I left the quarry area and walked into Nantlle. There was no network at all for my phone so I couldn’t phone the campsite to book. It was a bit of a slog on sore legs and with my heavy bag, but I made it to the campsite around 7 pm. I showered, made dinner (couscous with chorizo & peppermint tea), washed my clothes while having a hot chocolate, and connected to the WiFi (by the toilet block). It’s noisy on the other side of the campsite with a big group, but I think I will sleep well.

A note, the lady in charge of the campsite, I think her name is Donna, is an absolute gem. Super helpful. The campsite cost me £10 for one night.

Next I need to see if I can spot anywhere to camp 12 to 15 miles away from here.