Tag: trail

An Unforgettable Iceland Trek

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It’s been two weeks since I embarked on the unforgettable Iceland Trek in support of Prospect Hospice, and it’s time to share the incredible adventure with you all (sorry for the delay). From breathtaking landscapes to unexpected challenges, each day brought new experiences and lasting memories. I loved getting to know my fellow trekkers, and by the end of the five days, experiencing so much together, it felt like we’d known each other for five years. As I write this, I miss them so much!

Day 1: Travel and Reykjavik Welcome

Our journey began with an early start from the airport. Landing in Iceland just before lunchtime, we boarded our minibus, our trusty transport for the duration of the trek, and headed to Reykjavik for a delightful lunch in a food hall (everyone gets dishes from various restaurants and we eat in a central location) and a tour led by our knowledgeable guide, Dagny. From glimpses of the Parliament to insights into Icelandic history, the tour was a perfect introduction to this vibrant city. The highlight for me, however, was the harbour and the exceptional Harpa concert hall, a masterpiece of modern architecture.

In the evening, we arrived at our accommodation for the next three days. Expecting a basic hostel, we were pleasantly surprised by the lovely hotel awaiting us. Sharing a room with Sal, the best roommate I could have wished for, added to the experience. The hotel’s “hot pots” (hoy tub but not bubbly) offered relaxation with their crystal-clear waters, complemented by unlimited tea, coffee, and hot chocolate from the coffee machine. Chef Harry treated us to sumptuous dinners, with salmon and a lovely chocolate cake pudding, setting the tone for the adventure ahead.

That evening I had a glass of wine. My first in about 4 months (I’d stopped counting at 100 days). It felt right to enjoy a glass of wine with those wonderful people, eating delicious food.

That evening, we heard that the volcano on the Reykjanes Peninsula, which we passed on the way from the airport earlier that day and saw its smoke, erupted. The guide had told us that some scientists said it would erupt again whilst others were persuaded it would erupt again.

Day 2: Exploring Þingvellir

The morning brought a flurry of messages from friends, all concerned about the eruption. Fortunately, our trek remained unaffected; although we were also situated in the southwest of Iceland, far from the peninsula where the eruption occurred. We couldn’t even catch a glimpse of it in the sky, unlike reports of an orange glow seen above Reykjavik that night.

Hiking in Þingvellir National Park was a highlight of the trek, where we traversed a lava field (now extinct) in the 5km gap that separates the fault line between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. The stunning scenery, from lowlands to a beautiful lake, to picturesque waterfalls, left me in awe of Iceland’s natural beauty. In that place, I think I might have fallen in love with Iceland! Despite encountering some challenging weather, the day was filled with wonder for this unique landscape.

When back at the hotel we had a gorgeous dish of braised lamb, with a madeira sauce made after Harry’s grandmother’s recipe…. and the best creme brulée I’ve ever eaten!

It was St Patrick’s day so we celebrated with some Jameson whiskey. We also had a great game of cards. What a lovely evening.

Day 3: Conquering Hengill

On the third day of our journey, we ventured towards the majestic Hengill volcano mountain range. En route, we passed an intriguing plant that I had never encountered before. Apparently, these plants capture CO2 from the air and reintroduce it deep into the ground—a fascinating environmental initiative [news article about it].

Ascending Hengill was a monumental challenge, one that pushed me to my limits both physically and mentally. But I relished every step in the snow…I wasn’ so keen in climbing the steep mossy inclines. Despite being the hardest thing I’ve ever done, it also treated me to some of the most breathtaking sights I’ve ever seen and provided valuable lessons along the way.

As we ascended through snow, ice and moss-covered terrain, the physical and mental challenges became apparent for all of us in the group. Everyone was pushing their limits and supporting each other. Little did we know, the weather had more in store for us. During our lunch break, the strong winds started peaking and relentless sleet made an appearance—a preview of the grueling return journey back down the mountain that awaited us.

Despite the harsh conditions, the camaraderie within our group and the sheer beauty of the landscape made every step forward feel worthwhile. However, as the weather intensified, so did its toll on my body. I found myself grappling with mild hypothermia (I didn’t know that it was hypothermia at the time), my mood darkening as I struggled to eat, to stay warm and to stay focused.

Upon reaching the minibus, I was trembling, my soaked layers providing little protection against the biting cold. It dawned on me that the elements had gone through every layer, leaving me vulnerable and chilled to the bone. Grateful for the offered coats in the mini bus and for the short trip back to the hotel, I sought refuge in the warmth of the room, where a hot shower, dry clothes, and then comforting hot chocolate and cake in the snug, helped restore some semblance of warmth and vitality.

I still had a headache that only shifted after dinner. So I went to the sauna for welcome warmth.

Despite the adversities we faced, the experience only deepened my affection for Iceland and reinforced my belief in the indomitable resilience of the human spirit, as exemplified by the determination of our group.

Day 4: Reykjadalur Valley

Our final hiking day took us through the stunning Reykjadalur Valley, where hot springs and streams awaited. Walking through snow, wind, and hail once again, but this time I remained warm, we reached the hot river bathing spot—a surreal experience amidst the harsh elements.

Arriving at the hot river bathing spot felt like stepping into a dream amidst the unforgiving elements. The contrast between the icy surroundings and the soothing warmth of the natural springs was nothing short of surreal.

After indulging in the rejuvenating experience, we retraced our steps back to the café where we had parked, our spirits filled by the sense of accomplishment and camaraderie. With warm drinks in hand (and perhaps a few indulging in something stronger), we shared hearty laughs and triumphant smiles, basking in the joy of our shared achievement.

As we paused to reflect on our journey and the funds raised for Prospect Hospice, a profound sense of pride and gratitude washed over us. Not only had we explored some of the wonders of this remarkable country, but we had also made a tangible difference in the lives of others—a truly humbling and rewarding experience.

We headed to Reykjavik to a new hotel and for a celebratory dinner.

Still no sight of the northern lights but we’ll have to return to Iceland for this.

Reflecting on the Journey

Looking back on the Iceland Trek, I’m filled with a mix of emotions—gratitude for the support of friends and fellow trekkers, awe at the beauty of Iceland’s landscapes, and admiration for the resilience of the human spirit.

Being part of this landscape, each day, show how little we are, amongst the majestic mountains and vol

In hindsight, the challenges faced during the mountain hike on Hengill left a lasting impact. Since then, I’ve struggled with regulating my body temperature and have found it difficult to exercise properly.
Despite these ongoing difficulties, the journey was a testament to the power of perseverance and the joy of adventure. I’m priviledge, lucky and grateful to have had such an amazing experience, have met and walked with the most beautiful souls, and seen such incredible sights.

As I’m writing this, I want to thank every single one of you who have supported Prospect Hospice through donations on my page.


I’m now preparing for my next adventure, in May, in North Wales. More in the next post.
Until then, happy rambling.

Barbury Castle – A Walk to Remember

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It took us 3h10 in total

Yesterday’s ramble took me on an 8.5-mile journey, guided by the memory of Judith. Alongside Richard (my friend, Judith’s husband) and a group of Judith’s friends, we strolled off from Barbury Castle and the Ridgeway, while looking at nature’s wonders.

I had run a 5K parkrun in the morning and done leg day at the gym the night before, so this was perfect to stretch my legs. A day later, it’s all a bit tense so I’m off to yoga class today 🙂

I really enjoyed the walk.

Shortly after leaving the Ridgeway path, I heard a murmurration of starlings behind the hill, then some red kites soared above the path, a bit further.

Despite the biting cold, our brisk pace kept us warm, a fitting tribute to Judith, who sadly left us three years ago in December 2020. Judith had shared countless adventures with children on Duke of Edinburgh programs and her friends yesterday told me many lovely stories of her time with them.

The camaraderie with Judith’s friends added more warmth to the chilly walk. However, our hike wasn’t without its challenges. Crossing paths with a hunting group required a bit of patience (and a lot of my tolerance as I’m not very understanding of hunting generally), as they fired across the public road at pheasants. Further along, Finn, the energetic black Labrador who walked along with us, found himself in a field with horses, but together, we navigated the situation with teamwork.

Approaching Rockley, an unusual sight awaited – a field retaining water from recent rains, a rare occurrence in these clay fields.

The last few miles we walked through sunset around 16:30 and then it became much darker. With my ’emergency’ small torch in hand, I navigated the path, and as the temperature dropped, we reached the car park.

The celebration began with mince pies, blueberry muffins, and Christmas biscuits treats from East Germany that Alan brought. The festive spirit thrived, accompanied by (now daily cold) hot chocolate from my flask, while others enjoyed mulled wine (I don’t drink alcohol at the moment). The night views of Swindon were lovely, a fitting conclusion to a great walk.



As I reflect on this day, I am grateful for the invitation from Richard. Judith’s memory lives on through each step, and I look forward to honoring her with many more hikes. She remains a source of inspiration, alongside the wonderful Jen who’s also one of my hiking inspiration, shaping my journey one hike at a time.

I’ll write a bit more about my plans for this year’s walk in another post.

The next big hike will be in March, fundraising for the Prospect Hospice in Judith’s honour. You can read more here and donate if you can. https://www.justgiving.com/page/aurelie-icelandtrek2024

Until next time, happy rambling 💚

A Journey Along the Wildlife Walk in Celebration of Richard Jefferies

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Route on Strava

The Richard Jefferies Museum by Coate Water in Swindon has initiated the Wildlife Walk in celebration of Jefferies’s life. This walk spans a whopping 175 miles, connecting various places that were significant in Jefferies’s life.

The Richard Jefferies museum
Start

Three weeks ago, I took on the challenge of walking the length of the ridgeway, a grueling 99 miles over 6 days, which coincides with some of the Wildlife walk. It was a test of endurance and determination, but I’m proud and glad to have accomplished it.
Today, I connected that path, by walking from the Richard Jefferies Museum to the Ridgeway. Despite it being one of the hottest days of the year, and having already run a Parkrun earlier this morning, the main challenge was indeed the heat. You can check out the stats of my walk on Strava.

Coate Water Nature Reserve

My friend Craig, who’s well-versed with the route, was my guide for the day.

A significant portion of our walk coincided with the National Cycle Route 45, leading us to the Three Trees Farm Shop. There, we took a much-needed break (mostly looking at all the goodies in the shop) and refreshed ourselves with cold drinks.

The curly-wurly bridge over the M4

Our journey was mostly smooth, except for a stretch of long grass that we inadvertently ventured into. But that’s the beauty of such walks, isn’t it? The unexpected turns and the surprises they bring! And the rash on my legs has almost gone by now 😀

We were also treated to sightings of squirrels, red kites, rabbits, and deer along the way.

Craig, ever the enthusiast, suggested we circle around Liddington Castle, which I was relunctant to because my legs were getting tired and it was so watm, but I’m actually glad we did (I just moaned a lot). The views from the trig point, overlooking Swindon, were absolutely breathtaking.

Never not funny…

Our return journey, though still under the scorching sun, felt a tad easier. Most of it was downhill, and we eventually made our way back to Coate. To mark the end of our 11-mile walk in the heat, we decided to treat ourselves to a drink at the Sun Inn.

Now, here’s where I urge all of you to get involved. The Wildlife Walk is not just a physical journey; it’s an experience, a tribute to Richard Jefferies. I encourage everyone to explore the route, walk as much (or as little) as you can, and share your experiences with the museum. And if you’re around on the 6th of November, do join in the celebrations of Richard Jefferies’s birthday and life.

The Richard Jefferies Museum is a treasure trove of events and exhibitions. If you can, drop by for the “Music and Cream Tea” afternoons held on Sundays( you might see me there volunteering). In fact, there’s one tomorrow, and given the sunny forecast, I hope to see many of you there!

Another recommendation from me is to buy and read this wonderful book Wildlife, to learn more about Richard Jeffries.

Lastly, if you’re in a position to, consider donating to support the museum. Every bit helps in preserving the legacy of Richard Jefferies.

As for me, I aim to walk the entirety of the 175 miles, though I will not be able to complete it by the 6th of November. My next segment? Joining the Ridgeway to Tolworth, Surbiton. Life is proving busy and a bit difficult at the moment, so I’m not sure yet when this will be, but I’ll keep you updated in this blog.

Until next time, happy walking!

Day 6 on the Ridgeway: From Wendover to Ivinghoe Beacon – The Final Stretch

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I set out from Wendover at 08:15, excited for the final stretch of my journey on the Ridgeway. I was headed to Ivinghoe Beacon, and I kept ahead of schedule for the whole way.

Breakfast at the Red Lion. They ran out of red berries 🤣
Ready to smash those miles
Can’t wait to stop carrying that smelly pack backpack!

As I left Wendover, I reflected on the chat with the locals last night and how lovely the place is. I think I could live there. It’s really nice.



The walk past Wendover started with a nice stroll through the woods. Along the way, I met Nadinja from the Netherlands, just before Tring Park. We had a great time chatting and laughing together. Tring Park was lovely, though we never figured out who “Walter” was.



Tring station had no toilet or water, but the kind lady at the station gave us both a drink.

If you’re not aware, in the UK, there’s a plan to get rid of Ticket offices. Without this lady’s help today, a ticket machine wouldn’t have been able to help us with water!

Please sign the petition 🙏https://petition.parliament.uk/petitions/636542

We met Craig just after Tring station. And the three of us walked along.

After a quick nature break in the woods (sorry, TMI), I picked up the pace a bit. I slowed down when the hills multiplied, but I knew that would be the case.

As we made our way towards the Beacon, the views were amazing. We seems to follow a semi-circle around the Windmill below us.

Nadinja was fun to walk with. We even managed to get some inside jokes and a good few giggles train and plane, and fences spotting, and playing “Hiya” (if you know, you know). So much fun!

I completed the 11.7 miles (18.85 km) of the final day at 13:20, feeling very happy with my achievement.

We walked back to the car park, where Craig treated us all to a massive ice cream. We then headed to Tring station to get Nadinja to her train, and Craig drove me home.

I want to thank all the people who walked with me: Craig, Richard, Suzie, Nadinja, Kyle and all the people who have encouraged me along the way. I am not certain I have completed it without you all.

This journey on the Ridgeway was not just a personal physical and mental achievement but also part of my training for the Iceland Trek in March, in support of Prospect Hospice.

I would be incredibly grateful if you could donate to this cause and help support the incredible work of Prospect Hospice. Please visit https://www.justgiving.com/page/aurelie-icelandtrek2024 to make a donation.

So here this adventure ends. I have plenty of ideas for further walks and long hikes, and I’ll post about it soon, but for now, it’s goodbye from me. 👋

Ridgeway Diaries: Day 5 – Watlington to Wendover

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I woke up feeling tired today, having been disturbed by the sounds of snoring from neighbouring tents throughout the night. The bed wasn’t the comfiest, but the warm shower was bliss. I had a flapjack and banana for breakfast. Despite my fatigue, I was looking forward to the day ahead, especially as Richard would be joining me from Lewknor.



I left the campsite by 07:20 and walked to the Ridgeway, just a 5-minute walk away. I met Richard in Lewknor at 08:30, and we continued on the trail together.

I broke accidentally my zip on the side pocket of my bag. Inconvenient but it could have been worse.

We passed the turn-off for Kingston Blount at 09:30 and the turn-off for Chinnor at 10:15. Richard left me at about 10:30 by a gate in a field after the woods.

I reached Longwood Farm at 11:45. I arrived at Princes Risborough and the turn for the A4010 road around 12:10. I stopped at The Bell for refreshments around 12:45, but they weren’t serving lunch. I had a juice and salted peanuts, then left at 13:15. I popped into the Co-op for a sandwich and walked back to the Ridgeway by 13:45.

I took a wrong turn at Whiteleaf and got caught up in the woods. I reached Cadsden and The Plough at 14:40 and Chequers at 16:00. There, I had a chat with Kyle, a backpacker from Florida (living in Pennsylvania), who was doing the same route as me. I reached the monument and trig point at the corner of Coombe Hill at 16:45.

I arrived at The Red Lion in Wendover at 17:30, feeling very sore. My room was great, and I had a roast dinner and a pint of Neck Oil. I chatted with locals Pauline, Paul, and Bob. My feet are aching, and I’m worried they won’t be better tomorrow. I hope a night’s sleep helps.

Day 4 on the Ridgeway: overcoming small challenges and finding support

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Today I walked about 18 miles (not flat though!)



I left the Bull in Streatley at about 08:15 and headed down the hill in Goring for breakfast at Pierreponts, which serves lovely food. I also asked them to make me a sandwich to take away, so lunch was sorted. I was in good spirits.

Richard joined me at the café, and we had a chat before heading out on the trail. We started by the bridge in Goring at 09:25. I was disappointed that we were away from the Thames for most of this part, with houses blocking the view of the riverside. The terrain was flat.



We reached the Perch and Pike pub at about 10:30, which looked nice but was shut at the moment, in between owners. In North Stoke at 12:00, we took a wrong turn at the church but quickly got back on track. I turned off the Thames side to the Ridgeway track at 12:30. At that point Richard went across the river, joining the Thames Path back to Streatley.



There were a lot of bikes, wind, flies, and “countryside ” smells on that stretch, so I didn’t stop for lunch as early as I’d wanted after the turnoff. I stopped for lunch way after the trig point, near Grimm’s Ditch, and started again at 13:30.
I really struggled physically from that point, especially around 14:00. I felt faint and weak, and I’m still unsure why. I was also sweating a lot from that point. The weather was heavy and muggy all afternoon, which didn’t help.

Does that mean I have to climb up that tree?

In Nuffield I tried to use the water by the church but it had green bits in which means my water bottle which I was topping up, wasn’t drinkable anymore.

Shortly after Ewelme Park at 15:40, just before St Botolph’s, I was joined by my biggest supporter this week, Craig, who had parked in Watlington and walked the last miles with me. He also brought me water, which I was running out of. We walked up what felt like a never-ending hill before finally dropping down a hill where I stopped, sat on a log, and had some salted cashew nuts and more water.



We reached White Mark Farm at 17:30. I was very pleased with the distance (18 miles), but my feet were sore, especially the ball of my left foot. We walked to the pub, where I had a nice pint of Village Idiot and a meal with Craig. We then popped into the Co-op for supplies for tomorrow, and Craig dropped me back at the campsite.


I can’t find anyone at reception, so I’ve settled in the tent anyway, but it means I can’t find out how to charge my devices.
My phone is well charged, but my battery pack is on 11% and my watch on about 20%. It’s not enough to last me tomorrow. I still need to double-check my route for tomorrow (probably again 18 miles), and I’m not sure how I’ll cope on that distance alone, but I’ll do my best.

Over and out.

Day 3 on the Ridgeway: Rain & Resilience

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Today was Day 3 of my Ridgeway adventure, and it was a challenging one due to the weather. The rain was already pouring down before I even set off.

I walked about 14 miles (22.79 km)



My day began with a delightful breakfast courtesy of Louise at Quince Cottage. She also prepared a packed lunch for me and kindly gave me a lift to the spot on the Ridgeway where I’d stopped the previous day.


I hadn’t been walking for five minutes when I stopped to chat with farmers sorting straw bales (that’s what my dad does for work). I continued on my way, familiar with this part of the Ridgeway, which was fortunate as the heavy rain had soaked everything, making it difficult to consult maps.

The rain didn’t let up until around 12 pm, and there weren’t many opportunities for sightseeing or photography with the constant downpour. Despite the rain, I made steady progress.

By noon, I stopped just after crossing the A34 under a tunnel, ate some of my packed lunch, changed my socks, and carried on. My shoes and socks were absolutely drenched!

The day improved significantly when the sun finally came out, making the walk much more pleasant. I did get small blisters on the balls of my feet, which tends to happen with these hiking shoes. I chose to wear them anyway, knowing the weather would be bad today.

I arrived in Streatley much earlier than expected and checked into my room at the pub. My room was still being cleaned, so I enjoyed a pint and some salted peanuts while I waited. Three locals struck up a conversation with me. In the few minutes I was there, they’d been discussing my age and country of origin! It’s always nice to chat with locals, though.

They even arranged a lift for me to the pharmacy for blister plasters, and one of them is coming back later for a drink while I have dinner.

I also met the two lovely ladies who I’ve seen every day at breakfast or dinner. They’re planning to join me for dinner at the pub tonight.

Incredibly, my hotel room has a bath again tonight, so I’m soaking my sore feet before dinner.

I’m a bit worried about the pain of the balls of my feet but I have the night to recover. But first I’m off to grab dinner.

The very good news is that I had no anxiety attacks today. So I think my mental health is improving.
Tomorrow, I’ll be walking to Watlington which should be under 16 miles.

Back on the trail: Day 1 of my 87-mile Ridgeway journey

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A bit of context

After successfully completing the Hadrian’s Wall walk in June, I decided to embark on another through-hike, this time along the Ridgeway. This 87-mile journey is part of my training for a charity walk in Iceland next March, in support of Prospect Hospice https://www.justgiving.com/page/aurelie-icelandtrek2024.

Yesterday I packed my bag but decided to repack in my trusty OEX instead this morning.

With my backpack hastily repacked, I missed eating breakfast (I wasn’t able to eat due to anxiety anyway), I rushed to catch the bus to Avebury, where my adventure would begin.

In the bus with my trusty backpack
The Red Lion – Avebury

Day 1: Avebury to Ogbourne St George

The Importance of Company

I had put out a call on Facebook a few days ago for friends to join me on this walk, and I was grateful to have Suzie and Craig accompany me on this first day.
Their presence was a welcome distraction from recent personal challenges, including my mother’s illness and a breakup.

I have walked 23.3km (14.4 miles) from Avebury to Ogbourne St George.

The route.

The Journey

We left Avebury before 10am past the beautiful stones.
To my walking partners’ disappointment, I’d planned to via the official start of the Ridgeway at Overton Hill, past Silbury hill and West Kennet long barrow (unplanned visit but we got a lovely selfie) along the way.


The path was very muddy and full of surface water around west Kennett and there, just before Overton Hill, the walk included an impromptu tour of a field as we took a wrong turn. We reoriented ourselves quickly and carried on .

The path took us past Hackpen Hill, where Suzie got picked up, and Barbury Castle, where Craig picked up his car. I continued on to Smeathe’s Ridge before arriving in Ogbourne St George, where Craig rejoined me and guided me all the way to the pub. We enjoyed drinks, dinner, and a lovely chat about hikes and travels.

Reflections

As I sit in my hotel room, soaking my feet in a bath, I can’t help but feel a mix of exhaustion and satisfaction. I’ve caught a bit of sunburn, but I hope it won’t be too bad tomorrow. I’m a bit worried about the longer walk ahead, especially since I was slower than I wanted to be today.

I drank too much of my water too quickly so tomorrow I will need to manage this better. Craig gave me what was left of his water, between Hackpen and Barbury: I don’t have refill option tomorrow.


Thankfully, Craig has offered to join me for the last part of the hike tomorrow so I’ll have company again, and I’m looking forward to meeting Sophie for dinner.

The well, in the Inn
Sunglasses mark on my nose
And soaking those feet

As I settle in with my book for some rest, I can’t help but feel grateful for the support of my friends and the beauty of the Ridgeway.

Tomorrow is an early rise, and I’m excited to see what this next day has in store.

Hadrian’s Wall Day 6 – Newburn to Wallsend, the Final Stretch

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Map of today’s walk

As I began the last leg of my journey into Newcastle-upon-Tyne, I initially found that it wasn’t as industrial as some reviews had suggested. Yes, there were buildings and roads—it is a city after all. But the route, shared with the Route 72 cycle road, often meandered through surprisingly green spaces (see photos), making it much greener than the Thames-side walk from the Thames barrier, which I had completed about 18 months ago.

Flood marks over time, from the Tyne.



The closer I got to Newcastle-upon-Tyne, the more it felt like a festival of bridges! Along the way, I found numerous information boards about William Armstrong, the man who built Newcastle-upon-Tyne’s Swing Bridge and the hydraulic mechanism that operates London’s Tower Bridge. He seems to be to Newcastle-upon-Tyne and Northumberland what Brunel is to Swindon. His presence in the city’s history added a welcome touch of industrial history to my journey.

I dropped my bag at the hotel, keeping only my essentials and packed lunch. Regrettably, I forgot to top up my suncream. I took a break by the Tyne, enjoying my lunch before continuing my leisurely stroll past the Millennium Bridge. People were scattered about, relaxing in the urban gardens.

After passing the Bike Hut, the surroundings briefly became very industrial, reminiscent of the wharves in London. However, the path once again fell back into tranquillity at St Peter’s Marina, meandering along a wooded area by the Tyne. But, even though it was more pleasant by the woods and I was without my bag, it felt like the last three miles had stretched into five.
The area around St. Anthony has signs warning against going near the river due to contamination from a former tar works site. The final stretch, unfortunately, was marred by the sight of rubbish, presumably from fly-tipping, which was a letdown.



Just before 2pm, I arrived at Segedunum, my final destination. Here, I treated myself to a t-shirt and a badge. Since I had left my Hadrian’s Wall stamp passport at the hotel, the staff kindly provided me with a stamped piece of paper.

I did it! In total, I covered 155 km or 96 miles – somehow quite a bit more than the official trail distance of 84 miles.

From Segedunum, I journeyed via Metro to Tynemouth, a lovely seaside town bustling with life on this sunny Thursday afternoon. I enjoyed walking around, exploring two different beaches, the castle, and indulging in a well-deserved ice cream. I even dipped my toes in the North Sea, a perfect end to my Hadrian’s Wall walk.

Me with my ice cream

Returning to Newcastle-upon-Tyne, I treated myself to some new shorts and socks for my journey home. When I checked-in at the hotel, the hotel staff generously offered a bottle of prosecco, which I declined, fearing it would go to waste. Refreshed, I ventured out for an evening meal in beautiful Newcastle-upon-Tyne.

As this walk is completely and this particular blog series draws to a close, I am already contemplating whether to plan another through-hike in August or something entirely different. Meanwhile, I’ll leave you with Billy Joel’s wise words:

“Slow down you crazy child. Take the phone off the hook and disappear for a while. It’s alright, you can afford to lose a day or two.”

Here’s to seeing the sights and cherishing the journey. Big love! 💚

Hadrian’s Wall Day 5 – Chollerford to Newburn (am I stupid or just crazy?)

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This is today’s walk. I won’t reiterate it enough. If I had to plan this again, i would make quite different choices in my stops and distances covered per day.


After decided to rest more today, last night, I awoke too early at 6 a.m. in discomfort, but comforted by the thought that this would be my last night in a tent for this trip. Everything in the tent felt damp with the morning dew.
To my surprise, I found that a number of ants had found my tent quite comfortable and had joined me under the tarp. Thankfully, they didn’t invade the bedroom portion of the tent.

I spent my early morning hours browsing through Facebook messages and comments about my walk. The wave of kind words and encouragement was heartening, even though I found it hard (myself) to match the optimism reflected in these messages. Still, I was determined to give it my best shot, today.

After washing my hair (a small luxury given how dry it had been), breaking camp for the last time this week, drying my tent and packing my backpack, I arrived at the Riverside café as it opened at 9 a.m. I had a filling breakfast of eggs on toast and a decaf black americano. Perfect.

From the bridge in Chollerford

I set off at 9:30 a.m., beginning with an uphill hike that led me past Planetrees, where a section of the Wall is well conserved. I continued uphill through the woods and fields, past Oswald’s farm which looked very nice. It was after milecastle 24 that I entered the Stanley plantation, only to find a diversion in the trail. I found myself perplexed by the signage until I spotted the diversion sign. The walk through the woods was lovely; there’s something special about these kinds of trails in the woods that always fills me with joy.

I took a mid-day break at the Errington Coffee House for a cup of tea and a scone. I also used the time to change my socks, top up my water (having consumed about 1.5L in just 3 hours) and reapply my sun cream. I bumped into Heidi, Dan, Paddy, and Marlen, who I’d met yesterday on the trail. Their company, along with conversations with locals, was a pleasant distraction to the miles ahead.

We stopped at the Robin Hood Inn in East Wallhouses, where I had a late lunch.

The remainder of the journey was challenging, with long stretches and a particularly painful patch of chunky pebbles that felt like walking on Lego (I kid you not)! I did enjoy the Whittle Dene Reservoir. It looked so pretty.

Who does that? Seriously. The worse kind to walk on. I think the technical term for it is ‘rubbish’!


Passing Vindobala, I rested briefly. I eventually made it into Heddon-on-the-wall, although I was suffering from sore feet and a bad stomach. I still don’t know why. I felt better after a while. I didn’t think it was dehydration or bad nutrition as I was able to stave off dehydration by consuming salted cashews and rehydrating frequently, and I ate well all day.

As you arrive in Heddon-on-the-wall, do note that the sign telling you’re in Heddon-on-the-wall is quite a while before the actual village.

This is well after the sign. Still no village, yet.

Upon reaching Heddon-on-the-wall, I decided to catch a bus for the final 45-minute stretch, as suggested by Google Maps. But unfortunately, due to a mix-up with bus directions and a particular unhelpful bus driver who insisted that both the signage on the bus stop and direction on Google maps was wrong (and refused to let me on board!). Disappointed and tired, I decided to finish the journey on foot.

Tired face at the bus stop
Tired legs

Although this part of the journey was tough, the views over the Tyne and the distant sight of Newcastle made the pain more bearable.

At this point, my concern shifted to the dinner serving time at the pub in my lodging, which was stated to end at 20:00, coinciding with my ETA as per Google Maps. With 20 miles already behind me and a 15kg backpack, my body was beginning to protest. Despite nearly limping down Station Road just a few moments earlier, I found a surge of determination and began running (the mysterious powers of food!). The word ‘running’ might be a bit generous for my pace, but it was definitely faster than a walk!

I finally arrived at my lodgings for the night just four minutes before the restaurant stopped serving food. But they had closed the kitchen already. They were kind enough to make a fish and chips dish for me.
It was massive and I struggled to finish it.

After this challenging day, I decided to indulge in a soothing bath for my poor legs.
After nights of camping, the bedroom in the lodge felt like luxury. So spacious. Just the simple fact of having fresh towels rather than the lightweight microfibre type I’ve been using for days.

It’s the final stretch tomorrow – about 10 miles from here to Segedunum Roman Fort & Museum, where the walk officially finishes.
From there, I plan to head to Tynemouth, albeit probably not on foot. The end of this incredible journey is in sight, and I’m more than ready to reach it.