Llwybr Llechi Eryri – Day 6, Rhiwbach quarry to Betws-y-Coed

I woke up with the dawn chorus, feeling quite cold, and when looking outside, fog was covering all those beautiful views from last night. I warmed up with my breakfast (porridge and hot chocolate) and slowly started getting ready and packed for the day ahead. It was my last night out in the wild, and I had to pack this tent still damp from the mist. One thing that disgusted me was finding a slug on top of my sleeping bag! Yuck. I guess it got in the tent while I made and ate breakfast. It’s been a great experience but I don’t think I’m made for the fully outdoors life! I’m glad I did this for the last few days and got an experience unlike any others. But I’ll be glad not to have to carry my house with me everywhere after that 🐌.




When I woke up, I’d say the visibility was about 100m. By the time I set off, it had improved. Looking at my map, I estimated about 300m visibility. It improved as I walked along. I tried to keep a good pace to keep myself warm. I had all the layers and gloves, but it was a little windy and still cold.

I wore compression socks last night, and it may be the reason, but my right calf didn’t hurt as in previous days; I was especially conscious of it in the steep descent to Cwm Penmachno. It was pain-free.



The Eagles in Penmachno was closed and seemed to only open for evening meals, so I purchased some food and a big bottle of water at the Londis. I topped up my now empty Camelback and found a bin by the bus stop to throw the bottle away.

I found it hard to find directions out of Penmachno. Maybe tiredness or maybe I missed the signage? Then I climbed above Penmachno to the forest edge and carried on along the forest track for quite a while. I felt stronger, and my pace improved.

I saw some waterfalls, and then, as I planned to stop in the car park by the crossroads before the Conwy Falls for lunch, I realised there was a lovely café.
It felt like luxury. The café owners/workers were so lovely. The all-day veggie breakfast was delicious, and there was a charging point where I topped up my power pack. I had two americanos, and the sun came out while I waited. The toilets were very clean and boasted a shower cubicle, which is worth knowing for wild campers, I guess? Not that I recommend wild camping here as it’s a busy car park!



At this point, I made the decision to end my Llwybr Llechi Eryri walk at Betws-y-Coed today. It’s been wonderful, but being tired, I don’t think I should push it further. I decided I would return by public transport to my booked accommodation from there. With that in mind, I decided to take my time and enjoy the Conwy Falls. It was £2, so be prepared to pay if you ever go there. I was just surprised, but I do understand contributions help keep the place safe and sustainable. The sun had come out to play, which made it a very lovely stroll. The falls were so impressive and powerful!


I was a little tired after the stroll around the woods. I took a break by the café and then set off for my last stretch from Conwy Falls to Betws-y-Coed. What a wonderful calming walk. It was sunny, but the tree-lined paths made it so pleasant. I arrived in Betws-y-Coed just before 16:30 and sat on a bench in the park, contemplating what I achieved in the last few days, before heading to the train/bus station.


I perhaps will come back one day and walk from Betws-y-Coed to Bethesda.

My advice

– Plan for all weathers! Overall I was lucky with the weather but it gets cold and windy in places.
– Prepare to tackle hills. They are everywhere. But no rush, you can enjoy it and look around by slowing down. Also, the more you walk hills, the easier it gets.
– Travel light: I had my struggles but anyone who’s more reasonable than me would not do it camping , by staying in accommodation and getting support/lifts + not carrying a heavy pack. Having a lighter bag would massively have improved my pace.
– You need to like sheep a lot 🐑  😆 they will be everywhere!
– Don’t be scared to walk through mud and waterlogged ground. Get proper waterproof boots (mine are expensive but didn’t let me down a single time).
– Check your route before you go. Bring a map / make sure you have basic navigation skills in case you are in low visibility or in wilder areas with fewer signposts.
– Have sufficient water and food.
– Finally, enjoy! You don’t have to do the whole route. Do take detours to see sights you like. My favourite part hands up was Beddgelert to Nantmor. It’s short but challenging.
I also loved the Bwlchgwernog area, just before Croesor.

For those of you who live in the area, go enjoy the beauty you have in your doorstep 💚


I hope you’ve enjoyed reading these walk reports. I hope it inspires some of you to spend time outdoors, be it for your own adventures, on this trail or elsewhere, or a day out in your local area. Feel free to ask me questions if I can help. I might not know the answer but I will try to help/ find out.

Being with nature is wonderful for the soul. Try it more often.

So what’s next?

I will be walking a marathon between Winchester and Salisbury on 2nd June in aid of Julia’s House Children’s hospice. If you can and would like to contribute, here is the fundraising page.

After that, I am tackling the Edale Skyline challenge with my friend Andrea mid-June (20 miles in 8h – not sure I can do that!). I’ll try to blog about this. Then my walking adventures will be on a break until late October while I train for my first-ever half marathon. (Scary)

Diolch Eryri am yr antur! Wela’i di wedyn!

And with this, I wish you all happy rambling.

You can’t add days to your life, but you can add life to your days.

Llwybr Llechi Eryri – Day 5, Llan Ffestiniog to Rhiwbach quarry

I wasn’t feeling at my best this morning. I woke up with a headache (and a bit of a nosebleed but it didn’t last – I think it’s just sinusitis-kike symptoms) and remember having had very vivid stressful dreams.

My legs felt rested. My battery packs were not  full because the charger was super slow and only had one USB slot on it.

I had porridge and  hot chocolate. I also took antihistamines and paracetamol.

As I was packing my bag, I realised I broke my sunglasses which isn’t ideal. I guess that’s  something else not to carry but what a shame.

I  went to the corner shop (opened at 8am) to buy a couple of things before I headed off and left Llan Ffestiniog around 08:30.



The plan today was to walk to Penmachno.
It is a hilly challenging 13+ miles with a 5km stretch which the guide describes as the “wildest of the entire Trail” (also part of Migneint site of special scientific interest).

The first part of the walk was absolutely beautiful : Ceunant Cynfal nature reserve.
I walked past many waterfalls, lovely oak trees covered in moss, bluebells, etc. the main attraction is the Rhaeadr Cynfal waterfall.

Walking from Llan Ffestiniog to the viaduct, at a leisurely pace, stopping for photos of waterfalls, oak trees, moss and bluebells, took 1h.

I had been feeling quite tired, headachey and hungry. I stopped in the woods to eat salted cashews, drink water and take two ibuprofen (I had paracetamol this morning).
I knew there was a bit of hill climbing ahead today so  I took it at an easy pace.



I walked to the Fferm cwm (ancient building).
Then the hill that followed was vety hard work but rewarded by the beautiful waterfall once you reach the first top.
The path keeps climbing thereafter until you reach the road.
The terrain was also difficult with wet ground and clumps of grass. Watch your ankles!
My right calf was sore so it’s been hard work.

From there it’s well signed. I stopped after the crossing to send messages in case there is no signal later. I had food as it was lunch time.

Tiredness started to be felt at that point. My eyes wanting to shut and rest so I put on my fleece, laid on my backpack and slept for five minutes. I needed that rest.
I went on to Llyn y Morynion. It was beautiful. Sadly it was spoilt by the engine noise of a truck/car. Someone from Welsh Waters was sat there in the car space, with their engine on.


I carried past the dam and went past two small slate derelict houses. I followed what seemed the track only to realise I was slightly off track. I got my marks looking around and found the gate. Interestingly when I got there, it was the other side of the fence!


So I took off my bag and climed over.
Another win for the confidence:)

I walk past the bryn y Castell (ancient fort) and up the hill , following the fence. I stopped for an afternoon snack and watch battery top-up by a little lake (on the other side of the fence). It was good to stop to check the route ahead.


Straight after my break followed a lot of wet ground and I escaped sinking a couple of times; I made my way up then down hill to reach the road. I sat on the slate bridge for a minute – chatting on the phone with my daughters. Then I took on THE hill towards the slate plant. Steep road. It took me 30 minutes to reach the plant, helped by playing a bit of music too. I thought it was a good effort. Never skip leg day at the gym or interval hill training at the running club!


I walked around the corner from the slate plant, toward the disused communication towers and arrived on top of Rhiwbach quarry. What a view!



My legs have given up so I stopped here for the night. Just a few meters from the path, as I don’t want to be around any mineshafts.
I cooked dinner, drank peppermint tea and I’m ready to sleep.
I walked for 9 hours and saw nobody else walking.  Not even dog walkers.


Tomorrow will take me to Penmachno and hopefully Betws-y-coed. This is likely my last day of walking so I probably won’t complete the whole trail back to Bethesda. But I’m glad I walked this far already and I’m in awe of how amazing Eryri is.

Llwybr Llechi Eryri – Day 3, Talymignedd Isaf campsite to Croesor

As I started day 3, I expected a slow day, aiming for 12 to 15 miles. I woke around 2:30 am to a beautiful night sky, though my camera couldn’t capture it. After getting up  properly at 6 am, I delayed getting out of my sleeping bag due to the cold and fatigue.

After breakfast and chatting with other campers, Martin, a keen hiker and mountain leader, offered me coffee and introduced me to his wife Fran who walked across Iceland. We discussed hiking, with Martin diagnosing me as “insane” due to the weight if my bag! That’s about right.

I set off around 9 am, enjoying the sunny climb and later with majestic views of Yr Wyddfa and glimpses of the sea.



Descending to Rhyd Ddu, I stopped at a pub for a chocolate bar and apple juice before heading slowly to Beddgelert.

Despite enjoying the woods, I felt mentally fatigued. Concerns about finding accommodation and essentials like water and power troubled me. At Beddgelert, I couldn’t find anywhere to top up my power packs but charged up my devices on the charge I had left.  Refueling at a café (bara brith and coffee ) improved my mood and I started to feel brighter as I walked along the riverbank, feeling refreshed. Even my bag didn’t feel that heavy.



The day’s path was drier overall. I had occasional cloudy weather but mostly sunny.

This is when I had what is perhaps the best mile I walked in my life.

Negotiating boulders and paths over the side of the river was exhilarating. Despite the challenges, I felt happier and more confident.

It goes to show about impermanence of situations. I’m not saying you should always push through  but having a go at the next step before giving up is so important because you don’t know what’s around the corner.  In my case from being tired and wanted to call it a day to exhilarating happy moments on the trail.

Hiking is always here to remind me of these life lessons.

Passing through Nantmor and Bwlchgwernog, I struggled to find a suitable camping spot due to wet ground.



Also, after the fun buzzing part, I had a “moment” of awe when in a proper wild unspoiled area with majestic views.
I’m very lucky to have experienced this.

Eventually, I pitched my tent on a windy hillside above Croesor.

Limited phone connectivity made communication difficult, but I managed to send some messages before struggling to keep warm and falling asleep around 11 pm.

You won’t believe what happened in the night… Wait until the next blog, later on, you will have a good laugh at me!

Wiltshire and Malvern hills – Reflections on my Final Training Hikes

I wanted to share my last two training hikes before the Iceland Trek.

Sunday Solo Hike – More Iceland Trek Training

Date: 25th February 2024



This marked another section in my journey to prepare for the upcoming Iceland trek. Despite forgetting to check the forecast (rookie mistake, I know!), I embarked on a solo hike that turned out to be quite the adventure, if a wet and windy one!

The route took me through some familiar landscapes (which I’d walked in June 2022 on my walk across Wiltshire in aid of Prospect Hospice), starting with Walkers Hill and winding through charming little villages. As I walked along the canal and passed through Honeystreet and Alton Barnes, memories of my previous walks across Wiltshire flooded back, except there was a bit more wind and rain this time around.

The highlight of the hike was the ascent up the hills, with iconic landmarks like Alton Barnes White Horse and Milk Hill punctuating the landscape. Despite the challenging weather conditions, the walk served as excellent preparation for the cold and unpredictable weather I’ll likely encounter in Iceland. Plus, it gave me the chance to test out my gear once more  and make sure everything is in top shape for the adventure ahead.

The Malverns, with the best company I could wish for

Date: 3rd March 2024

And the trek training continues!



This time, for my last hike before the big one, I was joined by my two lovely daughters. They asked to join and wanted to “go up a mountain”. We would have done Pen Y Fan but the forecast was for heavy snow and the ground conditions meant we probably wouldn’t have been able to reach the car park.

So a friend suggested the Malverns. It was closer so that’s a win, but also it’s somewhere all three of us could discover together.

We approached the hills startled and in awe. It looked stunning with the snow atop. We parked and started from British Camp. Word of warning if you ever go, the card machine wasn’t working in the car park. Bring coins. The weather couldn’t have been more perfect – a beautiful sunny day that filled us with energy and excitement for the journey ahead.

As we soaked in the breathtaking views and embraced the crisp air, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for moments like these. And while I may have forgotten to start my Garmin for the first couple of miles (oops!), the experience itself was worth more than any number on a screen. In total, we covered a solid nearly 9km, making every step count.

These hikes, despite their challenges and surprises, remind me why I fell in love with hiking in the first place. Each journey is not just about physical endurance, but also about embracing the beauty of nature, pushing past limits, and finding moments of pure joy, whether it’s when enjoying company or simply connection with the world around us, when we’re on our own or with others.

I  still am amazed by  all the support I have got from all my friends. Thank you.

Tomorrow I’ll be landing in Iceland, ready for the three-day trek in aid of Prospect Hospice.

I can’t wait to share this journey with all of you

Until then, it’s goodnight from me.

Ridgeway Ramblings: Day 2 from Ogbourne St George to Letcombe Regis

Starting the Day Right

My day began with a hearty breakfast at the Inn with the Well in Ogbourne St George. I highly recommend staying here if you’re walking the Ridgeway. They even kindly provided me with a packed lunch for the day ahead.

A Minor Setback

I set off towards Letcombe Regis, about 20 miles away, but realised 10 minutes in, that I still had the room key in my pocket! I had to walk back to the Inn and start again. I felt so daft, but I had been feeling shaky and anxious earlier in the morning, so perhaps my brain wasn’t too focused.

Back on Track

I returned to the spot on the Ridgeway where I’d stopped the previous day, which created a loop/hook on my Strava map and added to my mileage…

The walk started well, and I maintained a good pace. I listened to music and enjoyed the amazing sights, meeting many dog walkers and cyclists along the way.

I saw an abundance of wildlife, including buzzards, red kites, rabbits, butterflies, beetles, swallows, and larks. The views were stunning, especially those overlooking Swindon.

Lunch Break

After Fox Hill, about halfway through the day, I stopped for a picnic break and enjoyed the packed lunch from the Inn. I changed my socks, though I must admit that compression socks don’t look great with shorts and hiking boots.

I found some water to refill my bottles and continued past Wayland’s Smithy.

I had this cake in my packed lunch and no idea what it is. Looks like a brownie but doesn’t taste like it. More like maple syrup. It was nice. I just don’t know what it is.

Overcoming Challenges

Just before Uffington, I struggled with the heat and felt nauseous. I started shaking uncontrollably, a sign of an anxiety attack. After a few minutes and some calming music, I felt better and carried on.

Support Along the Way

I reached Uffington White Horse Hill around 14:30, where Craig was waiting for me. He brought me stronger suncream, a nail file, Vaseline, a sun hat, and freezing water – all of which were much needed. We enjoyed an ice cream, and I continued up Uffington Castle. Craig parked at the end of my route and walked back towards me. We met up at Sparsholt Firs, and his company helped me keep a good pace when I was struggling past 28km.

A Warm Welcome

Craig drove me to my B&B for the night, Quince Cottage, where the lovely Louise and Andrew welcomed me with a cup of tea. After a warm bath for my feet, I headed to the Greyhound pub in the village for a meal with Sophie. We had a good chat and a walk around the village before I returned to my room.

Looking Ahead

The weather forecast for tomorrow looks grim, with rain and wind expected. Tomorrow’s walk should be around 16 miles, shorter than today but longer than yesterday. I’ll have to brace myself for the elements.

Back on the trail: Day 1 of my 87-mile Ridgeway journey

A bit of context

After successfully completing the Hadrian’s Wall walk in June, I decided to embark on another through-hike, this time along the Ridgeway. This 87-mile journey is part of my training for a charity walk in Iceland next March, in support of Prospect Hospice https://www.justgiving.com/page/aurelie-icelandtrek2024.

Yesterday I packed my bag but decided to repack in my trusty OEX instead this morning.

With my backpack hastily repacked, I missed eating breakfast (I wasn’t able to eat due to anxiety anyway), I rushed to catch the bus to Avebury, where my adventure would begin.

Day 1: Avebury to Ogbourne St George

The Importance of Company

I had put out a call on Facebook a few days ago for friends to join me on this walk, and I was grateful to have Suzie and Craig accompany me on this first day.
Their presence was a welcome distraction from recent personal challenges, including my mother’s illness and a breakup.

I have walked 23.3km (14.4 miles) from Avebury to Ogbourne St George.

The route.

The Journey

We left Avebury before 10am past the beautiful stones.
To my walking partners’ disappointment, I’d planned to via the official start of the Ridgeway at Overton Hill, past Silbury hill and West Kennet long barrow (unplanned visit but we got a lovely selfie) along the way.


The path was very muddy and full of surface water around west Kennett and there, just before Overton Hill, the walk included an impromptu tour of a field as we took a wrong turn. We reoriented ourselves quickly and carried on .

The path took us past Hackpen Hill, where Suzie got picked up, and Barbury Castle, where Craig picked up his car. I continued on to Smeathe’s Ridge before arriving in Ogbourne St George, where Craig rejoined me and guided me all the way to the pub. We enjoyed drinks, dinner, and a lovely chat about hikes and travels.

Reflections

As I sit in my hotel room, soaking my feet in a bath, I can’t help but feel a mix of exhaustion and satisfaction. I’ve caught a bit of sunburn, but I hope it won’t be too bad tomorrow. I’m a bit worried about the longer walk ahead, especially since I was slower than I wanted to be today.

I drank too much of my water too quickly so tomorrow I will need to manage this better. Craig gave me what was left of his water, between Hackpen and Barbury: I don’t have refill option tomorrow.


Thankfully, Craig has offered to join me for the last part of the hike tomorrow so I’ll have company again, and I’m looking forward to meeting Sophie for dinner.

As I settle in with my book for some rest, I can’t help but feel grateful for the support of my friends and the beauty of the Ridgeway.

Tomorrow is an early rise, and I’m excited to see what this next day has in store.

Hadrian’s Wall Day 4 – From Winshields Farm to Housesteads to Chollerford



The day began with a tough climb from the farm onto a trig point – a big ascent to get the heart pumping and legs warmed up for the day. The route from Steel Rigg to Sycamore Gap was a bit of a challenge with the heavy backpack shifting my centre of gravity, but reaching the top and having the sweeping views all to myself was rewarding.



After Sycamore Gap (sorry about the photo overload and silliness! It is after all the UK’s most photographed tree! Thank you Kevin Costner!), the trail took me north of the wall for a while until I reached the woods. I switched sides at a crossroads, rejoining the trail on the right (south) of the wall.



The walk from there to Housesteads was quite enjoyable, especially under the shade of Housesteads Plantations. I took a pause at the museum around 09:30 and utilised the freshly cleaned portable toilet. A sock change and a bit of food at the café fuelled me for the next part of the journey. However, I was disappointed to find nowhere to charge my phone or watch. I had to stop the watch’s tracking (hence two maps today) to ensure the Bluetooth was off and keep trying to charge it on the nearly empty battery pack.



From then on, it was a slow crawl over the crags up to Sewingshields Crags. I bumped into fellow walkers Lee and Lewis again, and we walked and chatted for a bit until it was time for another break in the shade.

The heat really started to take its toll as I made the long walk along the military road. It was a battle against the temperature, stopping at every bit of shade I could find and wetting my snood to cool down. Just after the Temple of Mithras, a kindly gentleman selling drinks in the car park saved me with a cold drink. I was mentally prepared to take a bus to Chollerford from there, but he offered to take my backpack so I could continue on foot.

If you see a van from Corbridge Coffee Company, do check out their drinks. I’m so grateful he was there selling drinks and took pity on me.

On the way to Chollerford, I joined Heidi, Marlene, Paddy, and Dan from Canada, and we completed the day’s walk together. We celebrated our accomplishment with a cold beer at the George Hotel. Although I forgot to get my passport stamped at Chesters Fort, it was the least of my concerns. I didn’t want to stop there, as I was so tired.

Exhaustion took its toll; I barely had the energy to pitch my tent. I was also suffering from a rash on my legs despite wearing trousers all day, and my IBS has flared up (I took buscopan) for the first time in months, and I have a sunburn on my back despite topping up my sun cream three times.

Lying on my backpack, unable to gather energy to pitch my tent.

Despite the discomfort, I made sure to get some food at the George Hotel Bar, understanding the importance of not sleeping on an empty stomach.

The long walk tomorrow is daunting, and I’m not sure I’ll make it to Keelman’s Lodgings. Even if I can get as far as Heddon-on-the-wall, I’ll consider it an accomplishment and then find transport to my lodgings.

Tonight, I plan on getting some rest and re-evaluating the situation in the morning. I might try for a later start, give my body a bit more rest, let my tent dry properly, and get a good breakfast before setting off. Perhaps I could even make it for a pub lunch at the Robin Hood Inn.

Despite the exhaustion and discomfort, the breathtaking views and experience are undoubtedly worth it.

It’s also a good time to remember my ‘why’: walking in aid of The Prospect Hospice and in memory of Judith, one of my hiking inspiration, who covered so many through-hike trails; seeing the sights and taking time in nature; pushing my own boundaries to grow from it, in resilience and strength. I have to remember why I embarked on this journey in the first place and keep that at the forefront of my mind as I prepare for another day on Hadrian’s Wall.

Walking the length of Wiltshire (18th-20th June)

It’s now been four weeks since I embarked on this insane but beautiful 79-miles walk across Wiltshire and Swindon. #WAWS

Life got in the way of blogging about it (I was planning to blog in the week after the hike) but it does deserve a post here. It’s my biggest physical and mental endeavour, yet.

I’m very proud to say we managed to raise over £1,000.00 for Prospect Hospice, in memory of Judith. I’m amazed and grateful for your generosity. Thank you so much to all who supported me.

I’m going to do my best to recall the walk but most of it is told by pictures and thanks to Aimée for pushing me on till the end on day two and three.

Saturday – Day 1: Meysey Hampton to Avebury

Shortly after starting the walk, I went through some woods before reaching the Fairford airfields and the early morning birdsongs were absolutely beautiful and enchanting. I’m sat in my garden now writing this and the bird songs now are lovely and echo the sounds of that morning.

It was so nice, just 2 weeks after I finished the Thames path, to re-walk some of the Thames Path walk, near Cricklade. It was especially such a striking difference, on a summer quiet day compared to when I last had approached Cricklade, late February in the midst of Storm Dudley!

My friend Richard, Judith’s husband, joined me in Cricklade for a good few miles all the way to Purton. It was great to have company. I was chatting so much that I forgot to take many pictures on that stretch.

After Purton, I had to cross another cows’ field and reached Mouldon Hill. There was a very overgrown area to cross but I made it. Then the rain started to be very strong as I stopped for my regular socks change and snack. But I still stopped, under a tree to make sure I had a good break.

At that point I was ahead of schedule. But with the weather and fatigue starting to hit me, I started slowing down.

By the time I reached the Oasis and Steam museum, I’d lost all the time that I had previously gained.

It became more difficult to progress, but walking along the canal as I left Swindon was such a pleasant experience.
As I left Wichelstowe before crossing over to Wroughton, I saw a sign telling me the path I expected to be there was shut as they are literally building a road there. So I walked along the road to Wroughton and that was a pretty unpleasant part of the walk, as I kept having to jump on the side/ditch as the car zoomed past.
Richard joined me again in Wroughton and we climbed to Barbury Castle together. We also met Mike Pringle on the way who joined us. It was so mice to have company. Also the weather had stayed dried since Wroughton too.
Then I joined the Ridgeway, on very familiar territory now as I walked this last bit to Avebury with the Race to the Stones twice before. It’s always such a hard part for me. And this was no exception. The weather turned, the wind picked up and I was miserable. Slow, cold, tired. My hips hurt with the pressure of my bag on my lower back. But I kept going and wobbled all the way to Avebury.

I was so tired and arrived quite late; I didn’t even take time to take photos. The car par was shut and there were a lot of security guards about as they were preparing for the Summer solstice that weekend.

https://www.strava.com/activities/7330739127

Sunday – Day 2: Avebury to Stonehenge (and a bit further)

On day 2, the amazing Aimee joined meat Avebury and walked all the way till the end with me! Avebury to Stonehenge was a marathon.

We were very lucky with the weather.

Richard joined up, just after Walkers’ Hill / Alton Barnes, along the canal and up to Woodborough.

It was very civilised as we stopped at a tea room and later in a pub garden for refreshments.

After Richard left, we then joined the Avon. We took a detour from my mapped route on Salisbury plains as the route was taking us woods that had no paths.

We saw some tanks crossing and then headed to Larkhill and Stonehenge. We carries a little further past Stonehenge to reach a lovely farm where Aimee’s friends live and Mark, Aimee’s husband picked up up from there.

I stayed the night at Aimee and Mark’s house in Salisbury.

https://www.strava.com/activities/7336107501

Monday – Day 3: Stonehenge to the border with Hampshire

I have to admit that day 3 was a bit of a blur. In some ways so many memorable moments but also all starting to blend because of the exhaustion. Aimee is mad enough to have joined me on day 3 and I probably have had to do a fourth day of walking if it wasn’t for her being there.


By then, my hips pain from day one was really taking a toll but it was a case of ‘mind over matter’ and I kept putting one foot in front of the other, thinking of all the people who kindly donated for Prospect Hospice, and listen to Aimee’s advice and encouragement.

Two things made a major difference: 1 – we switched on music on my phone and we walked along while dancing to the music. Our pace really increased. 2 – the way past Old Sarum into Salisbury, in the sun followed by an ice cream and lunch at the Cathedral was so enjoyable!

Before I forget to mention it, because I don’t have photos, one awesome memory has been to be able to watch parents and young Peregrines on the spire of the cathedral.
Outside of the west front of the cathedral, run by the local Salisbury members group of the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) there was an event allowing members of the public to watch the Peregrines through the two telescopes set up to watch the birds.

The rest of the day was tough, in the heat, diverted as the OS map route doesn’t indicate part of the route was private, and simply exhausted.

I was slow and felt like a burden for Aimee but we got there: we managed to get, after three days of walking, to the border with Hampshire; I also saw some wild horses which I’d been looking forward to seeing.

https://www.strava.com/activities/7340495457

The Thames Path – Cricklade to the Thames Source (section 14)

I started the walk around 08:00 from the Bridge in Cricklade, where I last stopped.

This last leg of the Thames Path has been much delayed so my rushed decision to get on the path today was definitely a very good one. A what a beautiful day for it!

I decided to return to using the DSLR camera for this last section, rather than using my phone for camera.

Shortly after I started walking, I managed to get lost following the path in Cricklade but soon re-joined it.

I met many people on the way and had some really lovely chats. The first couple I met was walking their dog, between Cricklade and Latton.
From early on it was a warm day and I took my zipped long sleeve top off and was in my t-shirt for the rest of the day.

As I left Cricklade, you could hear the murmur of the A419 cars, the backdrop of planes in the sky but thankfully, also, the birdsongs closer to the ear which made the walk so pleasant.


By the lakes, I saw some people doing water-skiing and all along the walk, I met dog walkers. Just past Ashton Keynes, I saw Colin, who I hasn’t seen in ages. That was lovely.

Animals

Flowers

Overall, my progress was slow due to taking pictures and chatting with people but I made the most of the beautiful day, and saw much wildlife, both flora and fauna, especially around the lakes, as I crossed the Cotswold Water Park. So many buttercups fields!

It felt quite sad to see so many trees cut down on the Thames side – especially by the fields that are trempled by cows already – there is a slight feeling of destruction and emptiness, in contrast with the lush fields, flowers and diversity in other neighbouring fields.

The paths got busier around the water part and Neigh Bridge Country Park.

On the Neigh Bridge path… you couldn’t make it up…

It’s been such a contrast to my earlier cold, lonely winter walks!

Cows

If you read my earlier posts, you may remember a near-miss incident with cows in a field… so I had a little stress when I saw these cows waiting at the end of a field… so I took to the left side to follow the field away from them.

Then a family arrived, from the opposite direction, and opened the gates. ALL the cows started to run and charge towards me! I was petrified. But I stayed as calm as possible.
The family looked at me but none of them asked how I was. They just stared! I can’t describe how brainless one would be to do what they did. The other issue was that the farmer who had their cows in one field will have to find their cows. I was ok but I wasn’t happy.

Getting to the Source

I carried on until Ewen; there the Thames stared to get drier. I had my sandwich on a seat with a ‘Millenium seat’ plate on.

It was quite a sight to see the Thames’ bed empty after Ewen. Quite sad in fact. But I guess it’s the time of the year where this area is dry?

Here’s a shot from ‘within’ the Thames river bed, upstream and downstream.

Then it was a few more miles until I finally reached the Source. It is marked by a stone and a signpost. I chatted with a few more people there.

Then I made my way, across the trainline, to the local pub: the Thames Head Inn, to celebrate the end of the walk.

I am just having a glass of Champagne this evening, while writing this post to celebrate, too.

22km in about 6hours.

It took me a little longer than hoped due to detours, but, I DID IT! I completed the walk: the whole of the Thames Path from Barrier to Source.

STATS: I walked a total of 204 miles (326 km) and spent £830 in travel and accommodation costs in total over the 14 sections. I have a spreadsheet with all the details if anyone is interested.

Planning a mad 3-day walk in a fortnight, again… watch this space 🙂

The Thames Path – Lechlade to Cricklade (section 13)

I started back at St John’s Lock, by the Trout Inn, in Lechlade, with the sun shining this time, rather than in the dark. I was just one bridge away from Halfpenny bridge in Lechlade which should have been my finish yesterday. Today’s destination was Cricklade.. The gusts of wind were very strong but I wanted to make as much progress as possible before the stormy weather forecast for after 13:00 in the afternoon.

I’ve been looking forward to this part of the walk: practically on ‘home turf’ now.

Before 10am I walked up to the Roundhouse footbridge. It was sunny, but quite windy which made it much harder to progress especially as it was a headwind. I only did two kilometres in 45 minutes, but it was much better than yesterday, and it wasn’t raining.

The wind kept getting worse. At this point I checked the weather forecast app on my phone. I’d checked in the morning and saw it’s be cloudy and no rain until 15:00 but what I had failed to check was wind! the wind was blowing up to 45mph: no wonder I could barely stand, never mind walk, in places! It had now got very cloudy with an occasional drizzle.

I stopped to have my sandwich and got the raincover on my backpack before Hannington Wick, There the Thames path was diverted away from the Thames which wasn’t much fun, especially when the ground was so muddy. I saw a couple walking in the other direction. They came from Cricklade and they said they had seen no one else and be on the path so far today. At that point, I knew the rest of the walk would be very lonely.

Castle Eaton was nice but, just my luck again, the Red Lion pub was closed so no lunch and no break away from the wind, for me!

The Thames path got back to the bank of the Thames again for a bit. The wind was really really strong and I had nowhere to stop but I was really hungry and thirsty, and I started to get headache. After a while I stopped in a field. I just sat there with the gale force wind in my face, eating crisps and drinking water. After that, it took me a little while to start again, because I was getting really tired.

I found the Thames path completely flooded at this point, so I had to try and work my way around rather than turning back and giving up. I did go through quite a lot of high water. Thankfully, my shoes are still fairly waterproof and then re-joined the banks of the Thames and carried on.

From then on, I went through many other flooded areas of the path. At one point I went over the barbed-wire next to a gate and later literally climbed over a gate and jumped the best I could to not have to completely submerge my shoes.

I finished a challenging 11.78 miles (which is just over 56 miles or just over two marathons in four days). But I’ve just had a lovely cuppa at my friend Claire’s, in Cricklade which made it all worthwhile.

The next and last section of the path (12.5 miles) is planned for the end of the month, but the last part of today’s walk was so challenging with mud and the Thames bursting out in places, that I now doubt I will be able to do it this month.