Ridgeway – Rambling On

A Journey Along the Wildlife Walk in Celebration of Richard Jefferies

September 9, 2023September 9, 2023Leave a comment

The Richard Jefferies Museum by Coate Water in Swindon has initiated the Wildlife Walk in celebration of Jefferies’s life. This walk spans a whopping 175 miles, connecting various places that were significant in Jefferies’s life.

Three weeks ago, I took on the challenge of walking the length of the ridgeway, a grueling 99 miles over 6 days, which coincides with some of the Wildlife walk. It was a test of endurance and determination, but I’m proud and glad to have accomplished it.
Today, I connected that path, by walking from the Richard Jefferies Museum to the Ridgeway. Despite it being one of the hottest days of the year, and having already run a Parkrun earlier this morning, the main challenge was indeed the heat. You can check out the stats of my walk on Strava.

My friend Craig, who’s well-versed with the route, was my guide for the day.

A significant portion of our walk coincided with the National Cycle Route 45, leading us to the Three Trees Farm Shop. There, we took a much-needed break (mostly looking at all the goodies in the shop) and refreshed ourselves with cold drinks.

Our journey was mostly smooth, except for a stretch of long grass that we inadvertently ventured into. But that’s the beauty of such walks, isn’t it? The unexpected turns and the surprises they bring! And the rash on my legs has almost gone by now 😀

We were also treated to sightings of squirrels, red kites, rabbits, and deer along the way.

Craig, ever the enthusiast, suggested we circle around Liddington Castle, which I was relunctant to because my legs were getting tired and it was so watm, but I’m actually glad we did (I just moaned a lot). The views from the trig point, overlooking Swindon, were absolutely breathtaking.

Our return journey, though still under the scorching sun, felt a tad easier. Most of it was downhill, and we eventually made our way back to Coate. To mark the end of our 11-mile walk in the heat, we decided to treat ourselves to a drink at the Sun Inn.

Now, here’s where I urge all of you to get involved. The Wildlife Walk is not just a physical journey; it’s an experience, a tribute to Richard Jefferies. I encourage everyone to explore the route, walk as much (or as little) as you can, and share your experiences with the museum. And if you’re around on the 6th of November, do join in the celebrations of Richard Jefferies’s birthday and life.

The Richard Jefferies Museum is a treasure trove of events and exhibitions. If you can, drop by for the “Music and Cream Tea” afternoons held on Sundays( you might see me there volunteering). In fact, there’s one tomorrow, and given the sunny forecast, I hope to see many of you there!

Another recommendation from me is to buy and read this wonderful book Wildlife, to learn more about Richard Jeffries.

Lastly, if you’re in a position to, consider donating to support the museum. Every bit helps in preserving the legacy of Richard Jefferies.

As for me, I aim to walk the entirety of the 175 miles, though I will not be able to complete it by the 6th of November. My next segment? Joining the Ridgeway to Tolworth, Surbiton. Life is proving busy and a bit difficult at the moment, so I’m not sure yet when this will be, but I’ll keep you updated in this blog.

Until next time, happy walking!

Day 6 on the Ridgeway: From Wendover to Ivinghoe Beacon – The Final Stretch

August 21, 2023August 21, 2023Leave a comment

I set out from Wendover at 08:15, excited for the final stretch of my journey on the Ridgeway. I was headed to Ivinghoe Beacon, and I kept ahead of schedule for the whole way.

Breakfast at the Red Lion. They ran out of red berries 🤣

Can’t wait to stop carrying that smelly pack backpack!

As I left Wendover, I reflected on the chat with the locals last night and how lovely the place is. I think I could live there. It’s really nice.

The walk past Wendover started with a nice stroll through the woods. Along the way, I met Nadinja from the Netherlands, just before Tring Park. We had a great time chatting and laughing together. Tring Park was lovely, though we never figured out who “Walter” was.

Tring station had no toilet or water, but the kind lady at the station gave us both a drink.

If you’re not aware, in the UK, there’s a plan to get rid of Ticket offices. Without this lady’s help today, a ticket machine wouldn’t have been able to help us with water!

Please sign the petition 🙏https://petition.parliament.uk/petitions/636542

We met Craig just after Tring station. And the three of us walked along.

After a quick nature break in the woods (sorry, TMI), I picked up the pace a bit. I slowed down when the hills multiplied, but I knew that would be the case.

As we made our way towards the Beacon, the views were amazing. We seems to follow a semi-circle around the Windmill below us.

Nadinja was fun to walk with. We even managed to get some inside jokes and a good few giggles train and plane, and fences spotting, and playing “Hiya” (if you know, you know). So much fun!

I completed the 11.7 miles (18.85 km) of the final day at 13:20, feeling very happy with my achievement.

We walked back to the car park, where Craig treated us all to a massive ice cream. We then headed to Tring station to get Nadinja to her train, and Craig drove me home.

I want to thank all the people who walked with me: Craig, Richard, Suzie, Nadinja, Kyle and all the people who have encouraged me along the way. I am not certain I have completed it without you all.

This journey on the Ridgeway was not just a personal physical and mental achievement but also part of my training for the Iceland Trek in March, in support of Prospect Hospice.

I would be incredibly grateful if you could donate to this cause and help support the incredible work of Prospect Hospice. Please visit https://www.justgiving.com/page/aurelie-icelandtrek2024 to make a donation.

So here this adventure ends. I have plenty of ideas for further walks and long hikes, and I’ll post about it soon, but for now, it’s goodbye from me. 👋

Ridgeway Diaries: Day 5 – Watlington to Wendover

August 20, 2023Leave a comment

I woke up feeling tired today, having been disturbed by the sounds of snoring from neighbouring tents throughout the night. The bed wasn’t the comfiest, but the warm shower was bliss. I had a flapjack and banana for breakfast. Despite my fatigue, I was looking forward to the day ahead, especially as Richard would be joining me from Lewknor.

I left the campsite by 07:20 and walked to the Ridgeway, just a 5-minute walk away. I met Richard in Lewknor at 08:30, and we continued on the trail together.

I broke accidentally my zip on the side pocket of my bag. Inconvenient but it could have been worse.

We passed the turn-off for Kingston Blount at 09:30 and the turn-off for Chinnor at 10:15. Richard left me at about 10:30 by a gate in a field after the woods.

I reached Longwood Farm at 11:45. I arrived at Princes Risborough and the turn for the A4010 road around 12:10. I stopped at The Bell for refreshments around 12:45, but they weren’t serving lunch. I had a juice and salted peanuts, then left at 13:15. I popped into the Co-op for a sandwich and walked back to the Ridgeway by 13:45.

I took a wrong turn at Whiteleaf and got caught up in the woods. I reached Cadsden and The Plough at 14:40 and Chequers at 16:00. There, I had a chat with Kyle, a backpacker from Florida (living in Pennsylvania), who was doing the same route as me. I reached the monument and trig point at the corner of Coombe Hill at 16:45.

I arrived at The Red Lion in Wendover at 17:30, feeling very sore. My room was great, and I had a roast dinner and a pint of Neck Oil. I chatted with locals Pauline, Paul, and Bob. My feet are aching, and I’m worried they won’t be better tomorrow. I hope a night’s sleep helps.

Day 4 on the Ridgeway: overcoming small challenges and finding support

August 19, 2023August 20, 2023Leave a comment

Today I walked about 18 miles (not flat though!)

I left the Bull in Streatley at about 08:15 and headed down the hill in Goring for breakfast at Pierreponts, which serves lovely food. I also asked them to make me a sandwich to take away, so lunch was sorted. I was in good spirits.

Richard joined me at the café, and we had a chat before heading out on the trail. We started by the bridge in Goring at 09:25. I was disappointed that we were away from the Thames for most of this part, with houses blocking the view of the riverside. The terrain was flat.

We reached the Perch and Pike pub at about 10:30, which looked nice but was shut at the moment, in between owners. In North Stoke at 12:00, we took a wrong turn at the church but quickly got back on track. I turned off the Thames side to the Ridgeway track at 12:30. At that point Richard went across the river, joining the Thames Path back to Streatley.

There were a lot of bikes, wind, flies, and “countryside ” smells on that stretch, so I didn’t stop for lunch as early as I’d wanted after the turnoff. I stopped for lunch way after the trig point, near Grimm’s Ditch, and started again at 13:30.
I really struggled physically from that point, especially around 14:00. I felt faint and weak, and I’m still unsure why. I was also sweating a lot from that point. The weather was heavy and muggy all afternoon, which didn’t help.

Does that mean I have to climb up that tree?

In Nuffield I tried to use the water by the church but it had green bits in which means my water bottle which I was topping up, wasn’t drinkable anymore.

Shortly after Ewelme Park at 15:40, just before St Botolph’s, I was joined by my biggest supporter this week, Craig, who had parked in Watlington and walked the last miles with me. He also brought me water, which I was running out of. We walked up what felt like a never-ending hill before finally dropping down a hill where I stopped, sat on a log, and had some salted cashew nuts and more water.

We reached White Mark Farm at 17:30. I was very pleased with the distance (18 miles), but my feet were sore, especially the ball of my left foot. We walked to the pub, where I had a nice pint of Village Idiot and a meal with Craig. We then popped into the Co-op for supplies for tomorrow, and Craig dropped me back at the campsite.

I can’t find anyone at reception, so I’ve settled in the tent anyway, but it means I can’t find out how to charge my devices.
My phone is well charged, but my battery pack is on 11% and my watch on about 20%. It’s not enough to last me tomorrow. I still need to double-check my route for tomorrow (probably again 18 miles), and I’m not sure how I’ll cope on that distance alone, but I’ll do my best.

Over and out.

Day 3 on the Ridgeway: Rain & Resilience

August 18, 2023August 18, 2023Leave a comment

Today was Day 3 of my Ridgeway adventure, and it was a challenging one due to the weather. The rain was already pouring down before I even set off.

I walked about 14 miles (22.79 km)

My day began with a delightful breakfast courtesy of Louise at Quince Cottage. She also prepared a packed lunch for me and kindly gave me a lift to the spot on the Ridgeway where I’d stopped the previous day.

I hadn’t been walking for five minutes when I stopped to chat with farmers sorting straw bales (that’s what my dad does for work). I continued on my way, familiar with this part of the Ridgeway, which was fortunate as the heavy rain had soaked everything, making it difficult to consult maps.

The rain didn’t let up until around 12 pm, and there weren’t many opportunities for sightseeing or photography with the constant downpour. Despite the rain, I made steady progress.

By noon, I stopped just after crossing the A34 under a tunnel, ate some of my packed lunch, changed my socks, and carried on. My shoes and socks were absolutely drenched!

The day improved significantly when the sun finally came out, making the walk much more pleasant. I did get small blisters on the balls of my feet, which tends to happen with these hiking shoes. I chose to wear them anyway, knowing the weather would be bad today.

I arrived in Streatley much earlier than expected and checked into my room at the pub. My room was still being cleaned, so I enjoyed a pint and some salted peanuts while I waited. Three locals struck up a conversation with me. In the few minutes I was there, they’d been discussing my age and country of origin! It’s always nice to chat with locals, though.

They even arranged a lift for me to the pharmacy for blister plasters, and one of them is coming back later for a drink while I have dinner.

I also met the two lovely ladies who I’ve seen every day at breakfast or dinner. They’re planning to join me for dinner at the pub tonight.

Incredibly, my hotel room has a bath again tonight, so I’m soaking my sore feet before dinner.

I’m a bit worried about the pain of the balls of my feet but I have the night to recover. But first I’m off to grab dinner.

The very good news is that I had no anxiety attacks today. So I think my mental health is improving.
Tomorrow, I’ll be walking to Watlington which should be under 16 miles.

Ridgeway Ramblings: Day 2 from Ogbourne St George to Letcombe Regis

August 17, 2023August 17, 2023Leave a comment

Starting the Day Right

My day began with a hearty breakfast at the Inn with the Well in Ogbourne St George. I highly recommend staying here if you’re walking the Ridgeway. They even kindly provided me with a packed lunch for the day ahead.

A Minor Setback

I set off towards Letcombe Regis, about 20 miles away, but realised 10 minutes in, that I still had the room key in my pocket! I had to walk back to the Inn and start again. I felt so daft, but I had been feeling shaky and anxious earlier in the morning, so perhaps my brain wasn’t too focused.

Back on Track

I returned to the spot on the Ridgeway where I’d stopped the previous day, which created a loop/hook on my Strava map and added to my mileage…

The walk started well, and I maintained a good pace. I listened to music and enjoyed the amazing sights, meeting many dog walkers and cyclists along the way.

I saw an abundance of wildlife, including buzzards, red kites, rabbits, butterflies, beetles, swallows, and larks. The views were stunning, especially those overlooking Swindon.

Walking in the grass verge at Liddington wasn’t very nice.

Lunch Break

After Fox Hill, about halfway through the day, I stopped for a picnic break and enjoyed the packed lunch from the Inn. I changed my socks, though I must admit that compression socks don’t look great with shorts and hiking boots.

I found some water to refill my bottles and continued past Wayland’s Smithy.

I had this cake in my packed lunch and no idea what it is. Looks like a brownie but doesn’t taste like it. More like maple syrup. It was nice. I just don’t know what it is.

Overcoming Challenges

Just before Uffington, I struggled with the heat and felt nauseous. I started shaking uncontrollably, a sign of an anxiety attack. After a few minutes and some calming music, I felt better and carried on.

Support Along the Way

I reached Uffington White Horse Hill around 14:30, where Craig was waiting for me. He brought me stronger suncream, a nail file, Vaseline, a sun hat, and freezing water – all of which were much needed. We enjoyed an ice cream, and I continued up Uffington Castle. Craig parked at the end of my route and walked back towards me. We met up at Sparsholt Firs, and his company helped me keep a good pace when I was struggling past 28km.

A Warm Welcome

Craig drove me to my B&B for the night, Quince Cottage, where the lovely Louise and Andrew welcomed me with a cup of tea. After a warm bath for my feet, I headed to the Greyhound pub in the village for a meal with Sophie. We had a good chat and a walk around the village before I returned to my room.

Looking Ahead

The weather forecast for tomorrow looks grim, with rain and wind expected. Tomorrow’s walk should be around 16 miles, shorter than today but longer than yesterday. I’ll have to brace myself for the elements.

Back on the trail: Day 1 of my 87-mile Ridgeway journey

August 16, 2023August 17, 2023Leave a comment

A bit of context

After successfully completing the Hadrian’s Wall walk in June, I decided to embark on another through-hike, this time along the Ridgeway. This 87-mile journey is part of my training for a charity walk in Iceland next March, in support of Prospect Hospice https://www.justgiving.com/page/aurelie-icelandtrek2024.

Yesterday I packed my bag but decided to repack in my trusty OEX instead this morning.

With my backpack hastily repacked, I missed eating breakfast (I wasn’t able to eat due to anxiety anyway), I rushed to catch the bus to Avebury, where my adventure would begin.

Day 1: Avebury to Ogbourne St George

The Importance of Company

I had put out a call on Facebook a few days ago for friends to join me on this walk, and I was grateful to have Suzie and Craig accompany me on this first day.
Their presence was a welcome distraction from recent personal challenges, including my mother’s illness and a breakup.

I have walked 23.3km (14.4 miles) from Avebury to Ogbourne St George.

The Journey

We left Avebury before 10am past the beautiful stones.
To my walking partners’ disappointment, I’d planned to via the official start of the Ridgeway at Overton Hill, past Silbury hill and West Kennet long barrow (unplanned visit but we got a lovely selfie) along the way.

The path was very muddy and full of surface water around west Kennett and there, just before Overton Hill, the walk included an impromptu tour of a field as we took a wrong turn. We reoriented ourselves quickly and carried on .

The path took us past Hackpen Hill, where Suzie got picked up, and Barbury Castle, where Craig picked up his car. I continued on to Smeathe’s Ridge before arriving in Ogbourne St George, where Craig rejoined me and guided me all the way to the pub. We enjoyed drinks, dinner, and a lovely chat about hikes and travels.

Reflections

As I sit in my hotel room, soaking my feet in a bath, I can’t help but feel a mix of exhaustion and satisfaction. I’ve caught a bit of sunburn, but I hope it won’t be too bad tomorrow. I’m a bit worried about the longer walk ahead, especially since I was slower than I wanted to be today.

I drank too much of my water too quickly so tomorrow I will need to manage this better. Craig gave me what was left of his water, between Hackpen and Barbury: I don’t have refill option tomorrow.

Thankfully, Craig has offered to join me for the last part of the hike tomorrow so I’ll have company again, and I’m looking forward to meeting Sophie for dinner.

As I settle in with my book for some rest, I can’t help but feel grateful for the support of my friends and the beauty of the Ridgeway.

Tomorrow is an early rise, and I’m excited to see what this next day has in store.

The Next Adventure: A Journey Along The Ridgeway

July 25, 2023July 25, 2023Leave a comment

It’s been a while since I last put pen to paper (or rather, fingers to keyboard) to share my ramblings with you. I’ve been busy working, hitting the gym (yes, that’s new!) and improving my nutrition with loads of yummy, mostly-veggie food. I’ve been a bit quiet on the hiking front, but that’s about to change. I’ve got a new adventure brewing, and I’m itching to lace up my boots and hit the trail again.

So, where am I off to this time?

In three weeks’ time, I’m heading to the ancient Ridgeway, one of Britain’s oldest roads. It’s a path that’s been trodden by countless feet over thousands of years, from prehistoric man to Roman soldiers (here’s a link to my last through-hike), from medieval pilgrims to modern-day hikers like me.

I started planning this the very day I was back from hiking Hadrian’s Wall Path. Long distance hiking can be so addictive!

I’ve walked much of the Ridgeway before as it’s local to me, but never the whole distance. I’ve often walked the westward path to Avebury, and I always find this last part quite challenging. So, I’m planning to tackle that bit first and reverse the route from my usual direction of travel.

Here’s a link to my hike in 2022 on the first day of my Walk Across Wiltshire in support of Prospect Hospice which involved part of the Ridgeway – that day was very tough!!

100km Race to the Stones finish line – July 2018, in Avebury

So what’s the plan?

My journey will begin on the 16th of August, when I’ll travel to Avebury, a place steeped in history and mystery. From there, I’ll make my way to Overton Hill, the official start of the Ridgeway. The first day will see me hiking 13 miles to Ogbourne St George, a charming village that’s a perfect end to the first leg of the journey.

The following days will be filled with more miles, more sights, and undoubtedly more stories to tell. I’ll be walking through Letcombe Regis, Streatley, Watlington, and Wendover, before finally reaching the end of my journey at Ivinghoe Beacon. Each day will bring its own challenges and rewards, but I’m ready for whatever the trail has in store for me.

Now, some of you might remember my last ‘little’ hiking adventure, where I camped along the way. This time, however, I’ve decided to forgo the tent and sleeping bag. Why, you ask? Well, finding a campsite along the Ridgeway in August is like finding a needle in a haystack. I did toy with the idea of wild camping, but it’s not exactly on the right side of the law. Plus, after my super hot hike along Hadrian’s Wall in June, the thought of lugging a heavy pack filled with camping gear for miles on end in August (which could be in torrential rain or in the heat) seemed like a Herculean task.

So, I’ll be staying in quaint B&Bs and indulging in a bit of glamping along the way. It might not be as adventurous as camping, but it does mean I’ll have a comfy bed to rest my weary body each night and a much lighter backpack! And who knows, I might even get the occasional cooked breakfast to fuel me for the day’s hike!

As you may know, this Ridgeway through-hike is also part of my training for an even bigger adventure next year: a trek in Iceland! I’m raising funds for the amazing work that Prospect Hospice does, and any donation, big or small, is very welcome. You can find more information and make a donation on my JustGiving page: Aurelie’s Iceland Trek 2024.

I’m really excited about this trip, and I can’t wait to share my experiences with you. I’ll be posting updates along the way, so make sure to check back regularly. And if you have any tips or questions, if any of my friends want to join for part of the way, or if there’s anything specific you’d like me to write about, don’t hesitate to drop me a line.

Until then, happy trails!

Dragon Hill, Uffington White Horse, Wayland’s Smithy & Ashdown House

March 5, 20233 Comments

Today was the first hike in a month and it was a chilly one.

This is the route I walked. Loosely based on this All Trails route.

It was good to get out, especially as life is challenging at the moment. One of my favourite moments was watching the red kites, close up, while by the Uffington White horse, on the hill.

Here are some photos of the walk.

In May, I’ll need to walk up to double this distance, every day for 7 days, with a 15kg backpack.
More training needed…

Next walk will be in a couple of weeks, still along the Ridgeway but further away, near Barbury.

Hackpen Hill Circular with Andrea

January 22, 2023Leave a comment

Hackpen Hill Circular on Strava – 22 January 2023

Today I had a great winter walk with Andrea.

The scenery was so beautiful, almost a winter wonderland at times.

The route was good. We used this All Trails route but we did it backwards which I was glad about as it would have otherwise started along the main road. It was nice to start the walk on the Ridgeway.

The All Trails red route isn’t easy to follow as it’s not on the actual paths so if you decide to do this walk, follow the closest (marked as a dashed line) path to the red line.

It took us 2h40 to walk the 11.5km, a little faster than the average time published on All Trails. That’s also a little longer than the All Trails map but only because we kept walking at one poi t while chatting and drinking coffee from Andrea’s flask. It wasn’t hard to get back on track and in terms of elevation the hardest part was the hill back towards the road in the last 30 minutes. So no massive challenge.

Just sharing some photos below.