I was lucky enough to be invited by my friend Andrea to join her for a walk, today. Joanna, another friend, joined her too so we went along, the three of us, on a circular walk from Bibury to Coln-St-Aldwyns and back to Bibury.
Apart from being very muddy, we were blessed with a beautiful sunny morning. The temperature was around 8 degrees Celsius but feeling nice and actually warm when in the sun.
After weeks of staying in a lot (I realise I haven’t posted on here for over a month), it’s been so good to walk and talk (my two favourite things).
I took a few photos on the way. I loved that we were by the river so much. Some of the climbs were a bit challenging but I’d done part of this route (clockwise) in the summer so I knew what to expect. I love that we saw a couple of red kites and also a few snow drops. It almost felt like spring for a while.
When we got to the river crossing at the bottom of hill in Coln St Aldwyns, we missed a turn and went too far for about 100 metres. We quickly realised that we seemed to be in someone’s driveway and turned round. There, a lovely lady opened her window and offered us some chocolates as she explained they were trying to give up chocolate. She gave us the box! How slightly random but amazingly kind is that?!? It turned out they were my favourite kind too. As we walked around the church in Coln, we did offer some of the chocolate to other walkers, sharing on.
We stopped at the Coln Café, at the community stores and managed to order some hot drinks just before the café closed. It’s such a lovely and friendly place. A lot of cyclists stop there too. We sat in the garden there for a few minutes, drinking our coffee and teas. I used the café’s toilet (the public toilet in Bibury were all out of order: all four of them!) and we when back down the hill and back along the river to Bibury.
We planned to go on another walk very soon as we all really enjoyed!
As I posted earlier, I couldn’t be on the Thames Path this weekend, so yesterday, I went to walk on the Ridgeway, locally from me, away from everything and as an opportunity to remember Judith.
Judith is my friend Richard’s wife. I first met Judith when they both came to see me at the finish line of a triathlon I did where they lived, years ago. Then I met Judith and part of the family again when Richard cycled a Sportive with me in 2013. She absolutely loved walking and is a great inspiration to me. She walked on the Ridgeway many times, including taking groups of students for the Duke of Edinburgh award. She passed away a year ago today. I thought of her on this walk.
So here are some sights from Barbury Castle yesterday morning and the White Horse trail, between fog and sun. I spotted a fog bow (white rainbow) over the Ridgeway. I didn’t know they were a thing until I saw one yesterday! It was a little surreal and very cool!
I cut the route short as poor Missy (now our dog – you may remember us taking her on the Waterfalls walk in Wales) was freezing and wet. I don’t think it was fair on her to try another 6 miles with her feeling cold.
That was just over 11 miles (18 km) in just under 5 hours’ walk. After that I went back in the warmth at home and sat with a cuppa coffee and some bara brith, which I baked on Saturday (if you haven’t had bara brith yet, I recommend trying – it’s a welsh fruit bread ).
My journey started with an early drive to Didcot before dawn on Sunday morning. There, I parked by Sophie’s house (who joined me on the last leg) by which time it was just getting light. I walked to the station to catch the bus. The 33 Connector runs from Didcot Parkway to Wallingford. But Google maps got me to walk a weird way in the opposite direction from the station. I realised as the bus was due to arrive…and there it was heading towards the station as I frantically ran all the way there. Luckily it was running late and I got in, got a ticket and took my hat and gloves off, and caught my breath. By Station Road further in Didcot, the bus driver had an altercation with people, asking a van to move out the way and a lady in a Christmas hat came shouting at him at the window. He proceeded to get out the bus again and gave a phone call. Then we went back on our way. At that point I was a little worried of timings. I felt it was then likely I would finish these 14 miles in the dark, perhaps for the last hour. I did bring a headtorch and a reflective vest so it was a risk I’d prepared for. I hadn’t anticipated it would be because of the bus however! (but that never happened as I finished before sunset)
It was very cold all day.
I started from Wallingford bridge and walked on the south bank of the Thames, past Wallingford Castle meadows, which is a lovely kind of nature reserve. From there, looking back at Wallingford allows you to see St. Peter’s church spire, which is quite a pretty sight.
It was quite windy which made a cold day feel sharply cold. I was wearing woolly gloves, a hat and my winter hiking shoes. I am glad I swapped from my trail running shoes to the warmth and comfort of these winter shoes because the start of the walk from Wallingford was muddy and wet on the ground. Even though, a bit further, as I approached Benson, there were some dry patches, the mud then proved a bit of a regular theme through the day.
It was so nice to be back there by the Thames, especially when I started to hear the sounds of the water by Benson’s lock, now becoming a familiar and reassuring feeling: it’s a nice place to come back to every fortnight.
At Benson lock, there is a little bridge to go over to the lock, and then another bridge crossing to the middle island with a beautiful little lock house from the early 20th century. From then I was on the North bank of the Thames.
By Benson Marina, in the waterfront park where there’s a small swimming pool which is the moment empty because of winter weather and probably COVID. Through the trees, there, on the other side of the road, we can see just about the Benson church. Then I went past a Waterfront Café which looked lovely but was closed so I’ll come back there another day.
The Thames past is diverted away from the riverside at Shillingford bridge.
The walk along the road in Shillingford was horrible. It’s not very nice. I was glad to get back to the Thames. There I had my sandwich in a bus stop, feeling sorry for myself having failed to bring my phone charger pack (which I usually always take with me). It was cold and pretty grim!
After Shillingford, I noticed my phone’s battery power (which I also use as my camera) had halved since it was fully charged at 08:00. The brightness on my phone was too high. As a result I decided to turn off a lot of function on the phone and switch it to airplane mode to save battery.
Sadly, I went past Dorchester-on-Thames and could just about see its church but I couldn’t stop and visit without making myself late and risking walking in the dark. It’s meant to be a lovely Roman town and I hope to return and visit some day soon.
I went past a few fields with sheep. I was hoping for less windy and cold as I crossed back over to the South bank just after Dorcherster-on-Thames but I just walked totally straight in headwind for much of the rest of the day.
Day’s Lock was nice and I saw a handful of people around there, a contrast to the relatively lonely morning of walking so far. I thought I was going to cross on the first bridge (very shiny!) but I ended up crossing over the weir. Crossing the Thames on a weir doesn’t fail to be entertaining and exciting. There is something special, maybe some kind of adrenaline rush, to find yourself over a thin bridge, looking down at the strong water flow under your feet and hearing the rush of the river. I don’t get tired of it.
The cold was making my face very cold and it started to rain; the rain was freezing so I wore my fabric face mask which I keep in my pocket to get in shops and cafés… it was helpful and I then decided I should get a buff for my next walk!
From there, I walked towards Clifton Hampden. I kept seeing the two remaining cooling towers from Didcot (I got to see the big towers being taken down a few years back): it felt like I was on the perimeter of a circle around Didcot, keeping them mostly on my left. I saw much wildlife on the way today. A lot of red kites, a few flocks of geese, and about 5 herons but they were very elusive so difficult to photograph with my frozen hands.
I stopped at The Barley Mow for lunch. It was very nice and great to have a warm meal after that earlier cold sandwich in a bus stop shelter. I picked up a little bit of local reference to Jerome K. Jerome there with the mention of that pub in Three Men in a Boat: (To Say Nothing of the Dog).
There I switched back to the North bank of the Thames. The path got muddier, the wind got colder and the rain got more regular as I left Clifton Hampden.
I saw some cow in a field on the way and they were very curious about me. I wonder if they thought I’d feed them?
I went under a railway bridge by Appleford.
From then on the landscape was not very different from the rest of the walk, and I kept my head down a lot with the cold weather. The rain stopped on and off but it was mostly dry after Culham bridge.
Culham Lock
I took a nice glimpse of the sunset a little after Culham lock.
flock of geese
Finally, the last stretch to Abingdon was pleasant (if a little muddy) and reminded me of the stretch getting into Chertsey last month.
I arrived on Abingdon bridge after 6h30’s walk. It was time for me to grab a hot chocolate and hop on a bus back to Didcot.
Now to plan for the next 5 days which are likely to be in very cold weather, just before Christmas.
Today I had the lovely company of Sophie and of Libby the dog for our 11 miles walk to Wallingford. The sun was shiny on this cold Sunday morning bringing so much shine to the lovely November colours in the trees.
We started the walk on Whitchurch bridge, leaving Pangbourne behind us.
At Whitchurch, we didn’t follow the Thames as the Thames Path takes it’s longer diversion off the Thames side. Instead we were taken uphill in beautiful woods with lovely colours around us.
It was lovely to walk with company and we kept a very good pace. The sunny morning made it easier too. Opposite the Grotto (in the other bank) and as we started to encounter more dog walkers, we realised that we were already approaching Goring.
In Goring took a right by the bridge and stopped for coffee and food at the Pierreponts Café. Not only it was a dog-friendly café but the food was yummy and filling and the décor lovely. We crossed the bridge and took a right in Streatley following the Thames Path signs. It reminded me of the few times I took a train to Goring and, walking that way, headed straight up the hill (instead to taking today’s right turn) towards the Ridgeway and walked home via the Ridgeway.
We had a little peek inside St Mary’s church in Streatley. A blue plaque showed Lewis Carroll preached there.
The path took us back to the riverside where we walked through the autumn leaves.
Shortly after the lock and weird, we saw a blue kingfisher (Sophie spotted it) on the other bank in a tree, but I wasn’t quick enough to get my phone out.
As we went past a nature reserve, we saw a rainbow which was a surprise on this sunny morning, then there was a bit of cold drizzle which stopped pretty soon after.
We heard the loud bells from South Stoke church and Sophie spotted a heron perched on tree, catching the sun . It’s not clear in the photo but that’s the best I could get.
Through Moulsford the Thames Path took us away from the river again along the A329 for a little bit. When we rejoined the riverside, we went under a railway bridge and then through Cholsey nature reserve. There were a lot of rowers going past. We sat on a deck for a little break and watched rowing boats going past.
We went under the A4130 and the weather had started the warm up but then turned windy and cold again.
We reached Wallingford and stopped in St Peter’s church for a minute then walked to the Bridge: the end of our walk for today.
We walked 11.85miles (19.07km) in under 4h45, from Pangbourne to Wallingford. We then walked around Wallingford a bit and found a dog-friendly pub (the Cross Keys), played dominos with a cup of tea while we waited for our roast dinners, and then went onto our bus stop for our onward journey. I’m planning to get back to Wallingford in a fortnight, weather permitting, to continue on the Thames Path.
I left my hotel at 07:30, at dawn, but you couldn’t see the sun rise because it was very cloudy and drizzly. Despite the weather forecast, planning for a low chance of rain and grey clouds, it was actually raining. I made my way to Henley bridge to restart my walk today, embarking on the seventh section of my Thames path walk: this would take me from Henley-on-Thames to Pangbourne.
I had crossed yesterday from the Berkshire bank to Oxfordshire when I crossed Henley bridge. Today, this path took my back to Berkshire and West Berkshire.
Henley-On-Thames churchOn Henley-On-Thames bridgeView from Mill Marsh Meadows
I passed the Rowing and River Museum, by Mill Marsh Meadows, as I left Henley. Then, just after this, I was fascinated by the long wooden curved footbridge over Marsh Lock and Weir, taking me to the middle of the Thames and back to the North bank. I then looked it up and the reason for this horseshoe footbridge across the weir stream to the lock and back, is that there used to the a mill, used for brass foundry, in the way. On the Berkshire bank there was a flour mill and that is still now known as Mill Bank.
Marsh Lock and Weir footbridge
Shortly after this, the rain and drizzle stopped and it just remained cloudy for the rest of the day.
The Thames Path crossed the Chiltern Way as I headed towards Lower Shiplake, then around Shiplake station. I crossed the railway line crossing at which point I realised the Thames Path was signed a little bit differently from where I’d come from. So I must have taken the wrong turn at one point and went through a main road past the houses rather than the footpath along the railway line.
In Shiplake, there was a lovely little corner shop and butcher’s with a couple of stalls outside, just before 9am.
I found a rail bridge which I had to duck to cross under! And I’m short… so that was a first for me; a minute later, a train went past – it was quite impressive. I then crossed a muddy field before rejoining the Thameside, walking along the marsh towards the towing path, opposite Wargrave Manor.
Further along , I went under a railway bridge at Shiplake which took me away from the riverside. The bridge weirdly looked like it was built for two ways but only has one railway side on. I found this both odd and interesting.
Today has been the most mud so far in the walk. There were some really muddy trails around Shiplake up to Shiplake college as well. They were all walkable, and as I said yesterday in the blog I’m only wearing trail running trainers and not proper hiking shoes, so it’s fine. It did make me realise that I may have to plan for switching to my winter waterproof hiking shoes on future stretches.
After crossing Sonning bridge I went over to the Coppa Club for a coffee and brunch, which was nice. It is probably above the price range I would normally have spent, but it was worth fuelling up at that point.
It was an opportunity to use the toilet and change my socks too as my feet had got a little wet in the longer grass and with the light rain earlier.
Restarting after brunch felt quite slow and cold initially but I warmed up after a while, past Sonning Lock.
Lock signs at Sonning Lock
I was then walking towards Reading along the south bank. I went through Thames Valley Park nature reserve. As the Oracle building was just in sight, there were some people flying remote control aeroplanes. I’ve probably just insulted someone now, because there might be a specific name for that hobby that I’m not aware of; if so, I do apologise.
People were going about their Saturday lunchtime: I saw a lot more dog walkers, joggers and families.
In Reading, I carried on straight when I should have gone over the footpath. So if you’re doing this route: take a left following the National Cycle road 5. As you leave the bridge you’ll see a sign welcoming you to Reading.
The path took me past the back of the Tesco car park. To my right was Coal Woodlands. It made me feel sad to see some of that woodland has got a lot of litter and extremely sad to observe that it might be homeless people staying here.
The path had now very much got no mud but instead was paved throughout.
Caversham Lock with a Ferris wheel in the background. Reading Bridge
I reached Reading bridge in just under five hours for 11.9 miles .
Footbridge near Fry’s Island.
I past my (unofficial ) halfway mark for the Thames Path, which was by Caversham bridge. Unfortunately I didn’t find anywhere suitable to buy a pint to celebrate.
Caversham bridge, half way through the Thames Path for me.
I walked out of Reading and Caversham on the Thames promenade and saw a few people walking.
The area after the Thames promenade was a lot more rural than what I expected looking at the map. It was quite pleasant rejoining the countryside.
Thames Side Promenade
Overall I was quite pleased. I was happy to have reached over halfway and also looking forward to resting my legs in the evening.
As I leave St. Mary’s island on my right, there are some allotments and gardens on the left but it was still quite rural.
I continued along the railway line (above e on the left) and signposts for the Thames Path take me over Roebuck footbridge over the train line: there were a few steps to climb. At that point, the path took me to Purley along the A329/Oxford Road, which was a really busy road.
A path was on the right after a gate which, although was not by the side of the Thames, at least it was away from the main road. To my right, through the trees I could just about see the railway line and then further down, the Thames.
I crossed over the railway on a bridge and rejoined the Thames side by Mapledurham Lock.
This all route today was nothing like I imagined from the map: I’d thought that coming out of Reading would be very much in housing areas but it’s very much been in the countryside, walking mostly through some meadows, which has been really a pleasant surprise. From the A road up to Mapledurham Lock hadn’t been necessarily pretty in itself; there were even some hills! But being back on the riverside, and hearing the water from the lock was such a nice feeling .
I walked past a small, new, footbridge over what looked like diverted water from the Thames: it was neither on my OS map nor on Google Maps.
As I approached Pangbourne, I could see the white toll bridge ahead. There was a sign for toilets towards the left. I didn’t need to use them because I was about to go check in my hotel but it may be of use for you, if you plan to walk along here.
Red kitePangbourne Meadow (NT)Pangbourne toll bridge Pangbourne is in West Berkshire whereas Whitchurch on the other side of the bridge is in Oxfordshire Views from Whitchurch bridge
I arrived on Whitchurch bridge in Pangbourne after a good day’s walk. I covered 18.89 miles (30.40km) in 7h38min.
Route on Strava
I had a celebratory ½ pint at the Village bar to celebrate my ½ way through the Thames Path.
The weather was grey and a little fresh but it was dry and remained so, which was just right for a ‘shorter’ day’s walk. I planned to cover 8.5 miles for the day and walked 8.97 so that was the most accurate estimate so far in 6 days of walking.
I stopped at Burgers tea room for a morning snack and coffee. It’s a bakery. The history is that it’s been taken over by a Swiss Burger family in 1942 and produce 32 kinds of chocolate. The tea room is lovely. It was easy to get a table without booking although it seemed quite popular from the outside. The staff was lovely too and the coffee reasonably priced.
Brownie & filter coffee at Burgers. Delicious. Affordable.
Just before I started the walk by the Marlow suspension bridge where I stopped last time, I walk past Higginson Park, a beautiful park with a lovely autumn feel.
Higginson Park, MarlowSetting off from Marlow suspension bridge
I passed Bisham church on the other bank, which had great reflections on the Thames.
Bisham church
There was also a goose perched on a tree, calling; I don’t know much about birds but I don’t often see geese perched on trees. I’ve seen them on the ground and I know that they normally nest quite low and I see them flying. However this one was on its own and calling constantly.
Perched gooseBisham church from the North bank of the Thames
The ground got muddier as I got around Temple Mill Island, but it was still very passable. I was only wearing trail trainers rather than walking shoes and I’ve not had any issues with mud today.
Temple Mill Island, Temple LockTemple bridge from Temple Lock
I went across over the Temple bridge towards Hurley and then across again at the next bridge.
The muddy path didn’t last very lonng at all.
There were a lot of leaves on the ground which is beautiful at this time of the year, but you do have to watch your footing because you can’t see any lumps in the ground and tree roots,etc.
Moles seem to like this erea a lot
Shortly after Hurley Lock, I met a lovely couple who were walking the Thames Path downstream. They were doing it non stop. Nicely encouraging
On the other side of the lock, just before the other footbridge to cross back towards Hurley, therewas a water point which may be useful to some of you doing the Thames Path, especially if you’re doing it in a summer for example,
I saw a herd of white deer and a pheasant!
I’ve never seen white deer before so it took me a minute to work out what animals were in front of my eyes!
White deer
I then got stuck in a field full of sheep. There was a gate at the end of the field, but that has a lock on and some barbed wire behind. Obviously, even if I did try to go over the gate, I’d be in another private property. So I followed the edge of the field, all the way back, then headed towards Aston.
Being away from the Thamesside as I progressed towards Aston it feels a little bit more of a drag.
There I went past something that looks like a giant stone Jenga.
And a useless gate with no fencing attached.
The colours of the trees were totally beautiful, in the tones of yellow and orange and reds, juxtaposed with some green, and the grass and the brown branches from the leafless trees . It was beautiful.
In Aston I walked on a tarmac road towards back towards the Thames and I saw a field with a number of birds including ducks, gees, pheasants and small chickens and other birds.
I saw a lot of red kites, circling and calling each other with the very distinctive sound of red kites.
After about six miles, my shoulders were starting to ache. I may need to get a new rucksack.
I just carried on, going past Hambleden Lock and a Marina. I was impressed by the power of the water at Hembeley Lock.
I think went on to Remenham.
As I left Henley business on the North side of the Thames behind me, the path turned back South, towards Henle-on-Thames.
At that point, I started to catch my first glimpse of Henley-on-Thames, lying South, with its tower.
I arrived in Henley in just under 4h from Marlow.
I was hoping to get a sunset photo but the cloud coverage was too dense.
I ended my day with a real lovely dinner at ‘the Bistro at the Boathouse’.
On Tuesday 9th November, I completed the fifth section of my Thames Path walk.
I started the walk on Windsor bridge where I had stopped the previous day, setting off on the North bank of the Thames, in Eton. It was a sunny morning, slightly warmer than the previous day.
Being back along the Thames rather than diverted away due to Private properties (on the previous day) felt lovely. The start of this section was indeed signed as being on a private property belonging to Eton College. But at least they were letting people walking there.
I’m went under the Windsor railway bridge, which I found fascinating. I really am growing to like those bridge and the engineering involved in the design and metalwork. I asked my partner if he could figure out why I’m started to be interested in bridges…I’ve never really taken an interest in these things before. He answered it was age! Well, so be it.
The woods, the colours, the path and the river were really nice. I was really enjoying and appreciating walking in the area and it quickly became my favourite part of the walk so far.
Mural under the A332
Shortly after passing under the A332 bridge, I had a lovely moment of warmth and gratitude and felt ‘well’ for a while. The Thames on my left, a meadow on my right, the sun on back and a lovely day ahead of me. It just felt right.
I was hoping to find some toilets at the Boveney Lock but there were none. There was a building without the roof and it did look like it could be a toilet but it was a disused urinal with lots of rubber rubbish left in it. No good for me. Not really pleasant either.
I think I need to write a whole new blog post about the lack of toilets on the Thames Path. Or maybe I need to hydrate less?
Just before Dorney Lake, I made a tiny detour to have a look inside the Chapel of Saint Mary Magdalene. I do like to visit churches. As a kid and teenager I rarely ever passed a religious place without entering/visiting if I could; so my curiosity took me inside the chapel.
Shortly after that I had my first nature wee of the walk! I didn’t want to but had little choice.
Further along, I carried on the walk, passing the Dorney Lake on my right and a big building which is a rowing club house for Eton, I believe.
I reached the bridge under the M4 at about one o’clock. That bridge was built in the 1960s and recently work was undertaken to the bridge as the M4 is turned in a ‘smart motorway’.
By the time I reached Bray lock, I had done 5 miles and I was started to be hungry so I stopped. I needed a break for lunch, changing my socks and checking my phone/social media. I had packed a lunch in the morning so I enjoyed that and then went back on the path.
Just past Bray lock, there was a movie set on the other side of the River, just before Monkey Island. The guidebook indicates that it’s actually originally referring to monks, rather than monkeys.
I arrived in Maidenhead, and noticed some really impressive mansions and nice boats from the far bank for the last two miles as I approached Maidenhead. On my right, I saw an interesting modern house was flying an Olympic flag.
I passed under the Maidenhead railway bridge, and at that point, Maidenhead bridge, ahead of me seemed so small compared to the railway bridge. The railway bridge was designed by civil engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel, whose work I am familiar with due to the Swindon Railway Works, the Bristol heritage but also the Brunel museum I came across on the first day on this walk in London.
So after I’ve crossed the Maidenhead bridge, I walked along the promenade, now on the South bank of the Thames. I stopped at the Riverside Gardens at the Jenner’s Café. They were about to close but they served me coffee and let me use the facilities.
I walked through Cock Marsh, just before crossing the Bourne End Railway footbridge and I saw some cows roaming the open fields. At that point, so close to sunset, I realised that I was going to finish my walk in the dark.
The sunset on Bourne End Marina was cloudier than the sunset on the previous day, and although not as spectacular, I still enjoyed the beautiful colours and views. It was starting to get a bit cold.
I saw flocks of birds as I walked past Gibraltar Island, the waxing moon was visible above, an to my right was the railway which I’ll use later on, on my way home. The next few miles felt like through a series of fields between the railway and the Thames, with a kissing gate in between the fields and the railway on one side and the Thames with trees and bushes on the other.
I entered Marlow via a lovely little landscaped park called Pergola Field. I got diverted inside Marlow away from the Thames side for a bit. Then I reached the wonderful Marlow suspension Bridge.
From there, I headed to the station. The station had no building, just the platform. I headed to Bourne End, Maidenhead and Reading. Grabbed dinner at Reading Station and got my last train home.
At that point I hadn’t planned the next part of the walk but I was getting a sense of addiction to the outdoors and to the Thames then, that made me want to start planning my next sections while onboard the train on the way home.
What a sight to open your hotel room’s curtains to!
I had a great dinner, a great night and a really filling breakfast (vegetarian full English) at the Bridge Hotel in Chertsey. I began the walk in a nice but fresh morning (it was about 3 degrees Celsius when I started), around 08:00, hence all the layers, the hat and the gloves on the pictures.
Different approaches
Depending on the guide book you use, it can be in one go from Kingston-upon-Thames to Windsor (Dillon, P., 2015. The national trails. 2nd ed. Cicerone, p.105.) which is 18.5 miles; or in three separate sections from Kingston-upon-Thames to Chertsey (11miles), Chertsey to Staines, then Staines to Windsor (Hatts, L., 2016. The Thames path. 2nd ed. Cicerone, pp.66-91.). I decided to break this part of my walk in two sections rather than one or three, so today I was walking from Chertsey to Windsor bridge.
Chertsey Lock to Penton Hook Lock
The route this morning started back on the North bank alongside a road: on my left was the Thames and then Chertsey Lock; on my right was the Thames Side road. Although it wasn’t very busy, it was a change from the peaceful wooden areas from yesterday. The Thames itself seemed really quiet and also very high.
The ground was muddier than yesterday walking through grass. The grass was still wet and so were my shoes and socks, very quickly so I was considering changing my socks even though it was quite early in the day (little did I know what was to come later in the walk). I barely noticed crossing under the M3 and quickly was by Laleham Camping Club. It was a pleasant landscape I was admiring on the South bank, with pretty houses and boats.
There was a diversion on Ferry Lane unfortunately sending the cars onto the narrow Thames Side, where I was walking in absence of a walking path.
Shortly after this the path re-started. This part was the most enjoyable in today’s walk, overall very quiet, peaceful and allowing for a lot of thinking and reflection. Penton Hook Lock area was especially pleasant.
Penton Hook Lock to Staines
My feet had dried by the time I got to Staines. The sun was out by then too which made my walk more enjoyable. I had set off yesterday with the sun in my face and today it was very much behind me (when it was out).
At times on the walk feels like nothing happens but actually, little things happen and those human interactions can really make my day.
I failed to mention in yesterday’s blog that I had a fun crossing of the Thames on the ferry at Shepperton with a family which I assume were mum, dad, little child and grandparents. I believe the child was named Curtis, and he was really lively and wanted to get on fast boat. He made me smile. He rang the bell to call the ferry. I am guessing they were on a day out.
Earlier today, in Staines I talked for a while to a lady had a Schnauzer; it was really nice.
And then a man was walking past with a dog carrying a big stick. I stupidly commented on how a massive stick that was, while looking just below his waist, at his dog carrying the stick. Oh the embarrassment!
At Staines I’ve crossed over to the South Bank with the Thames on my right and buildings which seem to be offices on the left, before moving to a more industrial area. I saw more squirrels on this side of Staines.
After crossing a small bridge I crossed a wooded area. The sound of cars started to get louder and louder. Then I crossed under the M25.
I had a coffee (which may seem overpriced at nearly £5 for a black americano… and it wasn’t even *that* nice…) at The Runnymede on Thames Hotel. It’s a really nice, modern and clean building and the toilets were very clean. I had my protein shake and took about 30 minutes break.
My advice, if you want a coffee and the use of toilets, is to carry on a little to the Runnymede Pleasure Ground. There’s a café and toilets there as well. So I would recommend to go there instead of the hotel if you can/ if it’s open.
Runnymede and Magna Carta
Walking along the National Trust – Runnymede and Ankerwycke area, I was looking at the map as I was looking for a sculpture called the Jurors. But unfortunately, I couldn’t see it from this side of the Old Windsor Road. The installation is by Hew Locke and tell the story of Justice from across the world.
The site of Runnymede is were the Magna Carta was sealed over 800 years ago: it is often considered the birthplace of modern democracy.
Further, I felt Ham Island to my right and carried along the Thames’ New Cut, as it’s called. I realised there’s sewage work over there so I’m glad I didn’t have to go around that part.
I made my way to Datchet. It’s not the nicest part of the walk, actually. It is very affluent and has a lot of magnificent houses but since I moved back to the North bank, there were no paths to walk on; you have to follow the road on tiny pavements, because everything’s privately owned by the Thames. There was a small public garden by the Thames as respite from all the mansions ‘blocking’ the Thames side. After a gap in the trees I managed to join the Thames path again, after crossing the road (there’s no pedestrian crossing there so you need to be cautious).
Drama in Windsor
As I crossed the Victoria Bridge, things got worse: the Thames path disappears…everything’s blocked off because of Windsor palace. There was a big playing field that would take me towards the Thames side so I started going across but walked both feet in sinking mud!
I walked further on, under a railway bridge. I had to cross through the boatyard towards an hexagonal brick tower and follow the road for a couple of minutes until I got back to the riverside. At that point, there was a railway to my left and to my right, still water from the lock.
The end of the road
The sign from the Thames Path was back, taking me on Romney walk, with Romney Island to the right, and Windsor Castle on the other side.
I finished today’s walk after 22 kilometres in 5h36. After a walk around, I found some public toilets in a car park and then made my way towards the Central station. I decided not to eat in Windsor as all seems too expensive. My train ticket was valid until 3pm as it was off-peak so I heading home 1h20min earlier than planned.
Tomorrow I’m back in Windsor for the fifth section of my walk. Until then, I’m off to rest up !
The third section of my Thames Path walk, from Kingston bridge towards Chertsey bridge should be around 11 miles but I walked 12.21miles (19.65km).
Map of section 3 of the Thames Path
It took me over 4h to get to the start of this section. Public transport on a Sunday morning is a challenge.
Train/tube/bus trip to Kingston-upon-Thames
I started today’s walk along Barge Walk by Kingston bridge. The path was busy with families and couples cycling and walking, some runners, some rowers, and even some children feeding the seagulls , in this nice and sunny Sunday afternoon.
It was warm enough in the sun but cool in the shade, around 11 degrees Celsius.
Switching sides
I should explain that today I started my walk on the North bank for the first time since the start of the Thames Path walk. This took me along Hampton court and then to Molesey bridge where I crossed over again. I crossed from North to South Bank and back to North again, including by ferry at Shepperton Lock.
View from Kingston bridge
Food
Even though I had only started the walk at midday, I stopped on a bench after a quarter of an hour for a protein shake as a snack.
My last couple of walks have taught me to try and plan some food to take with me, meaning I don’t have to rely on finding cafes or spend too much money all the time. I would much recommend that if you’re planning to do the Thames Path walk too.
Today I packed some snacks (protein powder and a shaker), a banana, a plum, an oat bar, some nuts and a ham and spinach pitta sandwich. I also have 1.2L of water in two bottles.
My rucksack this morning
The sounds of the Thames Path
Very much like the last couple of days’ walk along the Thames, the sounds are a major feature of my experience. Fom the rumbling of the cars, which you can just about see through the trees and the boats on the far side of the Thames, to a couple of boats passing along, the seagulls, people chattering, the sound of the wind and the leaves in the trees, and the water splashing along the banks after a boat has gone past.
Rambling on
To my left, and on the far side of the Thames there was the sailboat yard from Surbiton and to my right I get to Hampton Court and could see some horses, fields, and stables behind the trees. It was a nice straight path, not too muddy at all and fairly dry today, some leaves on the floor. The sun was shiny, and actually I realised I forgot to bring sunglasses, which would have been really useful this afternoon.
Around 13:00, I approached the Pavilion, on my right, but I could only really see a wall and the walking path next to it, unfortunately. At that stage, the weather had warned up and I took my jumper off. It was a pleasant afternoon. I crossed to the South bank at Molesey bridge.
Molesey Lock looked good. I’m always impressed by Locks engineering. I stopped at the Molesey Lock café to have my sandwich and a lovely black Americano, sound outside. The person serving me was very pleasant and asked about my walk.
Café At Molesey Lock
The café doesn’t have toilets but there are some public toilets just a few meters away along the path, which were surprisingly clean. I also took the opportunity to stop to check my feet which looked fine and I put on fresh socks.
As I come to the proximity of the Molesley nature reserve on my left, the path had become quieter and only a couple of walkers were about as well as a couple of cyclists the other way. There, the Thames seemed animated with swinging and dancing of sailboats through the fairly strong winds today.
The path, which was quiet until just before Walton Wharf, became busier just after passing Walton. My guess was that people were perhaps having evening walks or afternoon walks at their Sunday dinner.
The plan was to take the ferry at Shepperton Lock but I became a little anxious, seeing a few of the other ferries along the way we’re not operating because of adverse weather (I guess it was higher wind than normal?). So I found the Shepperton ferry’s phone number on my phone (https://www.nauticalia-marine-services.co.uk/shepperton-weybridge-pedestrian-ferry/) and they confirmed that they were operating today.
I got to Walton bridge where things were getting a little bit quieter.
To signal that you are waiting for the ferry, at Shepperton Lock, you need to ring the bell on the quarter hour. I didn’t do a great job at ringing the bell, but it worked. I then stopped at the café and drank another black Americano andngrabbed a slice of coffee & walnut cake before using the toilet and head to Chertsey. Despite not needing to go, I thought I should mention that there are done public toilets of few hundred metres after the café, in case you need.
Someone must have been having a garden fire as it was quite smoky and the landscape was quite eerie as you approach Pharaoh Island. With the sun setting, the colours and hue were changing, to the point it gave an eerie feel to the evening. I’ve read that all the houses are named after Egyptian places and items.
On the last stretch, the sun had set a little while before and I stopped a lot, taking quite a few pictures trying to capture the colours of the subset, but they weren’t great as there seemed to have a lot of power lines in the way, which was not that pretty, but I guess they are part of our landscape in some way.
The Thames at that point was really quiet. I kept walking on the tow path. The sounds had changed quite a lot, mainly coming from the noisy road on the other side of the Dumsey meadow, and from planes (we are very close to Heathrow).
The moon, just overhead, was so lovely: a thin waxing crescent. I really enjoyed that last stretch of the walk, this evening.
Arriving in Chertsey
As I arrived by Chertsey bridge, I could see a few flocks of migrating birds and fewer planes but also one fisherman in the dark, and a couple of couples walking dogs. It was only just before five but felt much later as it was quite dark. The street lights were on and you could see their pretty reflections in the Thames.
Views from the hotel room at The Bridge Hotel, Chertsey
I completed the third section, checked in my lovely hotel room with river view (had to change rooms because my door was broken), had a nice warming dinner at the pub downstairs and sat to plan tomorrow’s section.
I’m tired so it’s great time I get some rest before tomorrow’s 12 or so miles to Windsor.
It’s the morning of day two, after checking maps and a quick breakfast at a café, I have made my way back to Putney bridge a bit later than yesterday.
The idea behind a later start was that any cafés or toilets or pubs on the way should be open by the time I reach them this time. This side of London is such a sharp contrast to the start of my walk yesterday. Not only it’s not foggy today, but more than the weather, the change of surroundings such as the boat houses, rowers, rowing boats, and ducks have replaced the industrial concrete factories and seagulls.
I left behind the concrete pavements to now follow what has become a towpath along the Thames, a track with leaves and occasionally mud. It’s Sunday morning so there are many dog walkers, families, runners and cyclists on the path.
In contrast to yesterday there isn’t as much variety on my walk. On my left are woods, sometimes houses or boat houses and, later on, Kew Gardens; on my right is the Thames with rowing boats and canal boats.
The walk features a nature reserve called ‘Leg’O’Mutton’ , Hammermith Bridge, Harrod’s Village and furniture depository too. Then I also went past Kew Gardens and Old Deer Park with its obelisk.
Isleworth, near Kew (North bank)
Hunger was setting in as I approached Richmond Bridge, so I was planning stop at a pub called the White Swan. But they were full so I carried on.
Richmond felt like a seaside town with its ‘beach’ by the bridge, the seagulls, an ice cream van, people waiting for food, and people going about their Sunday by the boats. I stopped there for lunch, taking about an hour’s break. My feet were extremely sore. Richmond has a lot of cafés and restaurants. If I had to do the walk again, I would definitely aim to get there for lunchtime.
On the way towards Ham House which is National Trust property, Petersham Meadows were looking really pretty, with some cows lying in the field.
At the risk of repeating myself, my feet were really sore since after lunch. I went past Eel Pie Island. I read in my guide book was named after a dish they used today serve in the hotel, which has since been destroyed.
I stopped by the Ham Lands’ nature reserve because my feet hurt so much. I took ibuprofen with some water, I took off my hoodie and went on.
Despite the discomfort, I really enjoyed the area of Teddington and the locks.
Around 15:00 I approached Kingston upon Thames. Since the Ham Lands’ natural reserve, I have seen quite a few fishermen. I hadn’t seen any yesterday or in the morning.
I could see Kingston bridge in the distance, the sun was shining, and I was looking forward to dinner later with my friend Marieke who had joined me in London.
Just going past Steven’s Eyot, I observed more canal boats moored there, people feeding seagulls and swans and ducks and pigeons. On my left Canbury Gardens seemed such a beautiful lively park, lined up with benches, overlooking the Thames, Making it a very pleasant last little stretch of today’s walk towards the bridge.
I have completed day 2 of the Thames Path trail upstream. I walked from the Putney Bridge to Kingston Bridge in 6 hours. I covered about 14 miles (22.8 km). The previous day it took me 9 hours for 23.5 miles (37.9 km). So that’s 15h of walk for 37.5 miles (60.7 km). I’m so glad I gave this a start and look forward to the next stretch in a few weeks.
